Tuscany is a treasure trove of great red wine, as these 11 demonstrate.

“Super Tuscan” is one of those wine terms that doesn’t seem to have a clear definition. It was originally coined to describe a class of non-appellation red wines that originated in Chianti during the 1970s and early-1980s. These wines were a radical new take on Chianti, as they contained no portion of white juice, which the law required back then, but were made wholly from red grapes. Some used 100% Sangiovese, Chianti’s most prominent red grape; some blended Sangiovese with non-traditional red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and some went so far even as to use only non-traditional red grapes. The idea was that by dispensing with white juice, by experimenting with non-traditional grapes and by employing new winemaking techniques, such as small-barrel aging (up to that time Chianti had always been aged in large casks), the quality of Chianti would be greatly enhanced — which indeed proved to be the case. But there was a problem: These revamped Chiantis — excellent as they might be — could not, under law, be called Chianti, and so were forced to label themselves Vino da Tavola, “Table Wine,” a designation given to low-end wines of uncertain origin. Yet this did not deter wine journalists, who struck by the quality of the new offerings, were soon calling the wines “Super Tuscans.”

Eventually, an all-inclusive appellation, IGT, or Indicazione Geographica Tipica, was created for such wines. In addition, the laws governing Chianti were changed in the mid- and late-1980s. No longer was white juice required to be part of the blend, but the wines had to be at least 80% Sangiovese (or 100%, if the producer so desired) and could include up to 20% non-traditional red varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Syrah). This meant that many of the original Super Tuscans could now call themselves Chianti if they wished — though most chose not to do so, preferring instead to retain a singular identity.

The Super Tuscan tag has also been given to a host of wines that, although of high merit, are not truly “Super Tuscans” — at least according to the definition outlined above. For instance, wines such as Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Guado al Tasso from western Tuscany’s Bolgheri region are often grouped among the Super Tuscans. Yet unlike their Chianti counterparts, they were never forced to reinvent themselves. Indeed, what are non-traditional grapes for Chianti — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah — have always been traditional in Bolgheri, while white juice has never been part of the official blend. Moreover, the wines of Bolgheri have their own specific DOC or controlled appellation, a distinct step up from IGT and Vino da Tavola. As such, they have a clear identity of their own and don’t really need the Super Tuscan crutch.

But that said, when QRW sat down recently to taste a batch of Super Tuscans, we included several Bolgheri wines and one Sant’Antimo (a new appellation in southern Tuscany’s Montalcino zone) offering in the mix. That’s only because it has become — incorrectly, in our opinion — the accepted protocol to do so. But enough editorializing. Here are 11 red wines from Tuscany that, whatever you may call them, are truly super.

2004 Cabreo Il Borgo (IGT), $55.

70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, deep color; big, deep, powerful, black fruit, anise, mineral and toasty oak flavors — definitely for the long haul. BEST OF SHOW

2000 Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Lamaione (IGT), $55.

100% Merlot. Medium-deep color; pure, elegant, well-knit, highly focused, black fruit and mocha flavors.

2005 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (Bolgheri Sassicaia), $215.

85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Deep color; deep, rich, chewy, black fruit, mineral, toasted nut and French roast flavors — a bold beauty.

2004 Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio (IGT), $65.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, deep color; big, deep, powerful, black fruit, mineral and French roast flavors.

2004 Castello Banfi Excelsus (Sant’ Antimo), $70.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Deep color; big, rich, firm, well-structured, claret-like, black fruit, anise and French roast flavors.

2007 Carpineto Dogojolo (IGT), $11.

70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and other varietals. Medium-deep color; big, rich, juicy, earthy, utterly delicious, black fruit and mocha flavors. BEST VALUE

2005 Il Greppi Greppicante (Bolgheri), $54.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Medium-deep color; rich, ripe, elegant, juicy, black fruit, mineral and coffee flavors.

2001 Ornellaia (Bolgheri Superiore), $175.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Medium-deep color; rich, earthy, elegantly knit, blackberry, mocha and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Tenuta San Guido Le Difese (IGT), $25.

70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese. Medium-deep color; nice, tight, pure, well-focused, blackberry and French roast flavors.

2006 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto (IGT), $55.

45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese. Medium-deep color; ripe, pure, elegant, deliciously silky, blackberry, mocha and vanilla flavors.

2004 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio (IGT), $54.

100% Sangiovese Grosso. Medium-deep color; soft, rich, texturous, elegantly knit, black fruit and mocha flavors.

© 2007 Tasters Guild Orlando