Best of The Best: California Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is clearly on the rise in California. There are nearly 30,000 acres planted today — double what there were ten years ago. Moreover, in friendly (read cooler) climes such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, Russian River Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Maria Valley, this famously temperamental grape has become a model citizen, producing no end — or so it seems — of well-mannered wines. Indeed, whenever QRW sits down to taste California Pinot Noir these days, we find ourselves more and more impressed by the overall level of quality. This was certainly the case with our recent foray into 2006 and 2007 California Pinots, as once again, we found many wines to like.

The following 19 were especially good ...

Five-Star California Pinot Noir

Wines of extraordinary character and quality —

in a class by themselves

2006 Wild Horse Pinot Noir Unbridled (Santa Barbara County), $36.

Ultra-ripe black fruit nose; lush, opulent, well-concentrated, black cherry and toasted nut flavors — heavenly stuff!

2007 Barnett Pinot Noir Viento Valle (Anderson Valley), $55.

Enticing ripe-red-berry nose; plush, opulent yet well-knit, raspberry, cherry and vanilla flavors.

2007 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Clark & Telephone Vineyard (Santa Maria Valley), $50.

Fetching nutmeg and red berry nose; plush, silky, wild raspberry, spice and toasted nut flavors.

2007 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Las Alturas Vineyard (Santa Lucia Highlands), $60.

Ripe, toasty, black fruit nose; rich, spicy, well-structured, black cherry and roasted nut flavors.

2006 Donum Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley), $65.

Engaging blackberry aromas; deep, generous, plush, well-concentrated, black fruit, spice and roasted nut flavors.

2006 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Reserve (Russian River Valley), $50.

Deep, rich, cocoa-like nose; plush, spicy, well-balanced, black fruit and French roast flavors.

2006 Schug Pinot Noir Heritage Reserve (Carneros), $40.

Rich, spicy, black cherry nose; elegantly knit, black cherry, nutmeg and toast flavors.

Four-Star California Pinot Noir

Wines of outstanding character and quality —

benchmarks of their type

2006 Taz Pinot Noir Cuyama River (Santa Maria Valley), $25.

Rich, warm, black cherry and toasted nut nose; lush, round, elegant, black cherry and nutmeg flavors.

2007 Barnett Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard (Anderson Valley), $55.

Nice, ripe, black fruit nose; soft, round, juicy, black fruit and toast flavors.

2006 Byron Pinot Noir Sierra Madre Vineyard (Santa Maria Valley), $40.

Fresh, zesty, wild berry nose; plush, spicy, well-knit, wild raspberry and nutty oak flavors.

2007 Chalone Pinot Noir (Chalone/Monterey County), $37.

Rich, ripe, black fruit nose; big, fat, juicy, black cherry and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Dutton Goldfield Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch-Freestone Hill Vineyard (Russian River Valley), $58.

Fresh, ripe, black cherry nose; plush, supple, elegantly knit, black fruit and nutty oak flavors.

2006 Etude Pinot Noir Estate Grown (Carneros), $42.

Exuberantly ripe red-berry nose; deliciously pure, plump, juicy, raspberry and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Freestone Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast), $75.

Big, rich, black cherry and spice nose; plump, lush, elegantly knit, black cherry and spice flavors.

2006 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Land’s Edge Vineyard (Sonoma Coast), $45.

Fresh, spicy, black fruit nose; rich, full, spicy, black cherry and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters (Anderson Valley), $60.

Nutty black fruit nose; rich, plump, juicy, black cherry, toasted nut and vanilla flavors.

2006 Marimar Estate Pinot Noir Earthquake Vineyard (Russian River Valley), $55.

Deep, meaty, black fruit nose; big, rich, black cherry and roasted nut flavors — needs time.

2006 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir Petersen Vineyard (Sonoma Coast), $55.

Fresh, zesty, black fruit nose; ripe, plump, juicy, black cherry, nutmeg and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Twomey Cellars Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley), $50.

Big, rich, earthy nose; deep, rich, firmly packed, black fruit, mineral and French roast flavors — needs time.

These bubblicious beauties

are guaranteed to brighten any day.

Champagne is our favorite wine. And not because it goes with everything. We like Champagne for deeper, more spiritual reasons. No other wine is so routinely soothing, so irrefutably restorative, as Champagne. It dispels sadness, provokes camaraderie and transforms mundane moments into special occasions. Indeed, we believe with Serena Sutcliffe, that “Champagne should be a companion for life, ... part of the fabric of our days, on hand to mark a birthday or a piece of good news, and equally accessible when we need cheering up.” For those of you who wish to join us on that journey, we offer the following 30 wines.

NON-VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE

A blend of two or more vintages; must be aged minimally a year and three months on the yeast.

Five-Star Non-Vintage Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*NV DELAMOTTE BRUT, $44. Rich, creamy and lush, with a nice almondy overlay and a long, elegant finish.

*NV POMMERY BRUT APANAGE, $65. A blend of 20 select crus; 55 percent Pinot grapes and 45 percent Chardonnay; aged four years on the yeast prior to disgorgement. Big, rich, bread dough and mineral flavors, with a deep, long, toffee-like finish. 

*NV TAITTINGER PRELUDE GRANDS CRUS, $70. Fifty percent Chardonnay from the Grands Crus Avize and Les Mesnil sur Oger; 50 percent Pinot Noir from the Grands Crus Bouzy and Ambonnay. Big, rich, brioche and toasted nut flavors combined with a round, elegant, deliciously balanced finish. BEST OF SHOW

Four-Star Non-Vintage Champagne

Excellent: Wines of exemplary character and quality --

benchmarks of their type

*NV NICHOLAS FEUILLATTE BLUE LABEL BRUT, $30. Plush, round, succulent and creamy, with soft, almondy tones on the finish. Co-BEST VALUE

*NV CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RESERVE (Mise En Cave 1998), $40. Fetching bread dough and mineral nose; rich, medium-weight, mineral and toast flavors.

*NV MONTAUDON BRUT, $30. Creamy, elegant and finely balanced, with a nice hint of toast on the finish. Co-BEST VALUE

*NV PERRIER JOUET GRAND BRUT, $37. Seductive brioche, almond and mineral flavors; good, crisp acidity.

*NV VEUVE CLICQUOT YELLOW LABEL BRUT, $40. Big, forthright, minerally attack; plush, pear-like undertones.

VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE

One hundred percent from a single year; must be aged minimally three years on the yeast.

Five-Star Vintage Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*1997 BOLLINGER LA GRANDE ANNEE, $120. Big, rich, palate-coating, bread dough and toffee flavors; lush, elegant finish. 

*1996 HENRIOT BRUT MILLESIME, $40. Beautifully knit, subtly composed, brioche, cream and toasted nut flavors.

*1997 LAURENT-PERRIER BRUT MILLESIME, $60. Rich, plush, full-bodied, brioche, mineral and toasted nut flavors; long, elegant finish.

*1996 BRUNO PAILLARD ASSEMBLAGE, $64. Big, powerful, mineral, brioche and toasted hazelnut flavors; deep, long, resonant finish. Co-BEST OF SHOW

*1998 PIPER-HEIDSIECK BRUT VINTAGE, $65. Big, deep, rich, nuanced, toast, nut and mineral flavors; long, rivetting, elegant finish. Co-BEST OF SHOW

*1999 VEUVE CLICQUOT GOLD PONSARDIN LABEL VINTAGE, $60. Big, pronounced, almond and bread dough aromas; plush, elegant, deliciously winsome, toast and cream flavors.

PRESTIGE CUVEE CHAMPAGNE

A luxe, complicated blend kept especially long (five years or more) on the yeast; often -- though not always -- from a single year.

Five-Star Prestige Cuvée Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*1999 BOLLINGER R.D., $180. Big, deep, rich, complex, brioche and toffee flavors; long, resonant finish.

*1998 DOM PERIGNON, $160. Quite stylish, with pronounced brioche and cream flavors; lush, classy finish.

*1990 HENRIOT CUVEE DES ENCHANTELEURS, $135. Deep, rich, round, elegant, pear and toasted nut flavors; long, surprisingly fresh (given its age) finish.

*NV KRUG GRANDE CUVEE, $140. Big, deep, rich, brioche, mineral and toasted nut flavors, with a crisp, steely finish that never quits.

*1995 KRUG VINTAGE, $225. Big, rich, powerful, mineral, brioche and toffee flavors that explode on the palate. Co-BEST OF SHOW

*NV LAURENT-PERRIER GRAND SIECLE, $110. Floral aromas; toasted almond flavor notes; lots of finesse, with a nice, lacy, wonderfully seductive character. 

*NV PIPER-HEIDSIECK CUVEE RARE, $120. Rich, focused, sublimely elegant, pear and oatmeal flavors; long, lush, succulent finish. Co-BEST OF SHOW

*1996 POL ROGER CUVEE SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL, $225. Big, rich, ripe, pure, pear, and brioche flavors; long, lush, creamy finish.

BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE

One hundred percent Chardonnay; when vintage-dated, must be aged minimally three years on the yeast.

Five-Star Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*1995 CHARLES HEIDSIECK BLANC DE MILLENAIRES, $95. Crisp, fresh, elegant, oatmeal, pear and cream flavors; plush, round, highly sophisticated finish. BEST OF SHOW

Four-Star Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Excellent: Wines of exemplary character and quality --

benchmarks of their type

*1999 DELAMOTTE BLANC DE BLANCS, $79. Lush, creamy, toffee-like flavors; elegantly balanced finish.

*2000 LOUIS ROEDERER BLANC DE BLANCS, $78. Soft, silky, supremely elegant, almond and pear flavors.

VINTAGE ROSE CHAMPAGNE

Generally made by blending a tiny proportion of red Pinot Noir juice with a large proportion of white juice; as with regular vintage Champagne, must be aged minimally three years on the yeast.

Five-Star Vintage Rosé Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*1996 MOET ET CHANDON CUVEE DOM PERIGNON ROSE, $400. Brilliant orange-pink color; nutty, succulent, somewhat smoky, red berry and cream flavors; lush, round, ultra-classy finish. BEST OF SHOW 

*1997 LAURENT-PERRIER GRAND SIECLE ALEXANDRA ROSE, $150. Rich, round, succulent red berry flavors; classy stuff. 

Four-Star Vintage Rosé Champagne

Excellent: Wines of exemplary character and quality --

benchmarks of their type

*2000 DEUTZ VINTAGE ROSE, $77. Brilliant pale pink color; ripe, zesty, highly refreshing, red berry flavors; crisp, clean, elegant finish.

*1998 HENRIOT VINTAGE ROSE, $80. Deep-burnished salmon color; smooth, plush, succulent, red berry and toasted nut flavors; good underlying acidity.

*1998 POL ROGER VINTAGE ROSE, $92. Brilliant orange-pink color; round, succulent, highly polished, red berry flavors.

NON-VINTAGE ROSE CHAMPAGNE

Generally made by blending a tiny proportion of red Pinot Noir juice with a large proportion of white juice; as with regular non-vintage Champagne, must be aged minimally one year and three months on the yeast.

Five-Star Non-Vintage Rosé Champagne

Outstanding: Wines of such remarkable character and quality

as to be in a class by themselves.

*NV NICHOLAS FEUILLATTE BRUT ROSE, $40. Brilliant, shimmering pink color; fresh, nutty, red berry and nectarine flavors; long, lush finish. BEST OF SHOW

Four-Star Non-Vintage Rosé Champagne

Excellent: Wines of exemplary character and quality --

benchmarks of their type

*NV BRUNO PAILLARD PREMIERE CUVEE ROSE, $56. Pale, salmon-pink hue; deliciously off-dry strawberry flavors; plush, silky finish.

*NV TAITTINGER PRESTIGE ROSE, $65. Brilliant pale pink color; ripe, creamy, red berry flavors; nice, crisp, zesty finish.

Double Gold Tasting Notes from the 2008

Tasters Guild Consumers’ Wine Judging

UP TO $10.00

Sylvester Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon — Paso Robles, California

Mellow fruit aromas of ripe, red fruits. Easy drinking with prominent flavors of black cherries and blackcurrant. Easily qualifies for a “Best Buy” category. From pizza to grilled meat this wine will fit the bill of fare.

Sheffield Cellars Marsala - California

“Oaked mellowed” dessert wine in the Marsala or Cream Sherry-style. Soft and elegant, a pleasing after-dinner drink with walnuts and blue cheese or extenuate the classic dish of veal marsala.

St. James 2007 Vintner’s Select Vignoles Missouri

This French/American hybrid grape is a fine example of how delicious the Vignoles grape can be. Long known in the Midwest and Eastern U.S. wine areas as a versatile varietal, this version is full-bodied and extremely flavorful with hints of fig, peach, and apricot.  Enjoy by itself or with a vanilla soufflé.

$10.01 TO $15.00

J. Lohr 2006 Riverstone Chardonnay Monterey, California

Vibrant aromas of oak and citrus fruit. Well-balanced flavors of crisp citrus and an extraordinary lingering aftertaste that permeates the mouth. A powerful, delicious wine. Highly recommended with any style of seafood and shellfish.

von Stiehl 2007 Un-Oaked Chardonnay Wisconsin

Fragrant aromas of pear and ripe pineapple. A smooth, pleasant mouthfeel and delicious fruit flavors that personify the essence of the Chardonnay grape.  Nice balance of fruit and acidity that makes this wine an excellent companion for freshwater fish and grilled vegetables.

$15.01 TO $20.00

Pedroncelli 2006 Three Vineyards Sauvignon — California

Soft, flavorful red fruit with highlights of spicy pepper and careful use of toasty oak. Still a little tannic on the aftertaste which means this wine can be enjoyed into the future. This wine will be welcomed on the holiday dinner table with roast turkey.

Chateau Thomas  2006 Merlot Napa, California

Big, ripe, aromatic tree fruit. Smooth and very approachable. A lovely bottle of Merlot that even the folks from the movie “Sideways” would appreciate. Dr. Thomas continually creates wonderful wines from premium California grapes. Worth the trip to Indiana to purchase it. Try with shish kebab or lamb chops

Surfrider 2007 Pinot Gris Santa Barbara, California

Wonderful floral bouquet and fruity, crisp, citrus flavors. Throw in a few nuances of melon and then from the bottle’s back label, “Imagine warm sand between your toes and a cool ocean breeze as you sip this seductive wine!” An excellent companion for picnic fare, Asian dishes and cream sauces.

Surfrider 2007 Chardonnay Edna Valley, California

An alluring bouquet of tree fruit with a slight spicy fragrance. Clean, crisp feel of citrus fruit on the palate that makes this wine an excellent companion for many different food dishes, but Asian flavors would blend extremely well with this tasty beauty.

Vino è Buono 2005 Sangiovese - Colorado

A little touch of Italy from the Spero Winery in Colorado. Seem odd? Not when you taste this full-bodied, robust red wine with a bowl of pasta smothered with a hearty red meat sauce. Magnifico! A match made in Denver.

Pindar 2006 Chardonnay Late Harvest North Fork of Long Island, New York

A dessert wine of immense tropical aromas and flavors that engulf the mouth. All sorts of fresh, crisp fruit flavors entice the palate. Serve chilled after dinner by itself or with an assortment of pastries, but definitely share with friends.

Parallel Forty Four 2007 Meditation Wine Wisconsin

The grape variety Frontenac is showing up more frequently throughout the Midwest with amazing success. This dessert version entices the nose and palate with rich, ripe cherry aromas and flavor. It finishes the cherry enjoyment with a hint of chocolate. Lovely with a flourless chocolate torte.

$20.01 TO $27.00

Glenora 2002 Finger Lakes Brut New York

A multitude of tiny sensory bubbles fill the mouth.  A crisp, flavorful sparkling wine that would be a pleasure to serve (and drink!) at any house party, in or out of doors. It is indeed, as they say, “A Beautiful Wine.” The perfect wine with hors d’oeuvres or as an aperitif before dinner.

Sunset 2004 Barbera — Napa Valley, California

Deep garnet color and enticing black fruit aromas. Black cherry flavor is prominent on the palate and excites the senses. This Barbera will create all sorts of sensory pleasures as you proceed from taste after taste until it is sadly gone. A dish of “mama mia’s” great homemade red sauce pasta.

Sunset 2003 Zinfandel — Dry Creek, California

Old vines sparsely produce some luscious fruit and Sunset creates a rich, complex wine from the harvest – at a great value!  Ripe, red berry fruit aromas with hints of chocolate and spice that fill the mouth. Delicious! Osso Bucco would be a winner at the table.

Mount Pleasant Winery 2005 Port Missouri

An explosion of ripe fruit aromas greet the consumer when approaching this lovely glass of fortified wine in the port-style. Flavors linger on to a pleasing finish. German chocolate cake.

$27.01 TO $35.00

Hagafen  2005 Zinfandel — Napa, California

Spicy berry fruit with a pleasing lingering aftertaste. Full satisfaction on the palate  and ready to be enjoyed to its fullest now and for a couple more years. Will match nicely with Provencal-style dishes or roasted game bird.

Falkner Winery 2004 Syrah Temecula Valley, California

Deep, dark color with full, ripe fruit aromas. Deep, delicious flavors of rich red fruit with hints of vanilla oak. The pleasure of this wine lingers on in the finish. Would pair nicely with a rack of lamb.

Ventana Vineyards 2005 “La Danza” Tempranillo — Monterey, California

The great Spanish grape variety making its mark in the U.S. La Danza translates to “the dance” which we will gladly do with this wonderful blend of dark fruits and a hint of oak that creates an alluring wine for “dancing the night away.” Try it with a spicy dish of paella.

Quady Winery NV Deviation - California

From the nation’s foremost maker of dessert wines comes this fabulous aromatic dessert wine flavored with Rose Geranium and Damiana of the plant kingdom. This wine is indeed a “deviation” of traditional winemaking. Would make an excellent “hot tub” wine to enjoy and aerate the room at the same time.

M. Cosentino Estate 2006 Ancient Vine Zinfandel — Lodi, California

Rich, full-bodied wine exudes intense, red berry fruit flavors. A delight to drink and enjoy with a plate of fresh Parmigiana Reggiano cheese. An exquisite treat.

$40.01 TO $50.00

Prix 2006 Napa Valley Pinot Noir California

From their North Block Reserve Soleil Vineyard this Pinot Noir personifies rich berry flavors that consume the palate with a hint of spice. Beautiful aromas of ripe fruit greets the nose and works through the first and last sip. Enjoy with marinated pork loin chops.

Prix 2005 Moskovite Ranch Zinfandel Napa, California

A special “Block 61” reserve wine of special significance.  Everything you would expect of an exceptional Zin. Full, rich red berry fruit, hints of spice and exceptional balance with a long aftertaste. This is a wine for complex roast meats and stews.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir — Oregon

Smooth and elegant, a pleasure to consume. Complexity that is nicely balanced  with richness that begs for another taste. Grilled salmon or a spicy Cajun dish would be our first thought.

Cosentino 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, California

Exceptionally easy drinking wine that does not sacrifice structure for elegance. This merging of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with the predominate Cabernet Sauvignon exemplifies the flavorful blending skills of winemaker Mitch Cosentino.  Easy choice with roast meats or hearty vegetarian dishes like eggplant parmigiana.

$50+

ZD 2006 Reserve Carneros Pinot Noir California

Full-bodied flavor that engulfs the mouth and lingers on the back palate. Burgundian –style with intense fruit that is also organically grown.  A superb wine that will not disappoint with heartier meat dishes such as boeuf bourguignon.

Prix 2005 Reserve Mélange Napa, California

A bouquet of floral aromas greet the nose and intense black fruit flavors engulf the palate.  An exquisite blend of grapes producing a wine that is not near its peak of pleasure. But don’t wait for it, they only produced 300 cases. Save it for your finest cut of beef.

Chateau Thomas Limited Release “Black Gold” — Indiana

The winery is in Indiana, but the grapes (67% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot) are from Lodi, California. No matter, the wine is an exquisite blend of premium grapes. Bright, flavorful fruit that would complement an array of meat dishes. Unfortunately, the wine is only available in Indiana — lucky Hoosiers!

ZD 2006 Chardonnay Napa, California

The exacting quality of ZD wines personified. Sixteen months on oak does not overpower this wine but adds to the complex, big style of the de Leuze family. Beautifully balanced in flavors that entice the palate to linger on the aftertaste. Planked fresh salmon would be our first choice for this outstanding wine.

Chateau Thomas 2003 Family Reserve  Indiana

A classic blend of the Bordeaux grape varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (25%), Malbec (5%) and Petite Verdot. Lovely, smooth flavor of classic quality. Worthy of your finest steak off the grill.

R & B 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve  Napa, California

Two years of barrel aging has made this wine an exceptional rendition of California’s great red varietal.  Smooth, easy drinking flavor with enormous depth in the aftertaste. Extremely well-crafted wine that captures the entire essence of Cabernet. Beef, but not too hearty to overpower this beauty.

Best “Value” Cabernets

These ten volume brands deliver the goods for $12 or less.

Like lovers, the world wants them. We’re talking about good, inexpensive wines. One of Robert Parker’s most read wine features is his “World’s Greatest Value Report.” The same is true at QRW: our annual “Best of The Best Value Wines” remains one of the most read articles in each Summer issue, and, when placed on our web pages, receives over a million views a quarter. We’ve learned that people love to read about and discover these wines. Our subscriber surveys show that people who search for value wines, very often buy expensive wines as well. The satisfaction for them is finding value wines good enough to sustain them on a regular basis until they drink their more expensive ones. “Polarity Pricing” (consumers buying wines from one extreme price point to the other) is fairly common in the industry.

Respect

Respect should be paid to those producers who take their volume wines seriously. Year after year, they grow their own grapes and/or source them, annually offering value, consistency, and price. Further, respect for their blending abilities must be paid. Making a high end red wine with great grapes is not particularly challenging; producing and blending a good value wine with less than brilliant grapes is.

Think California, But Not Exclusively

Our blind tastings of value wines show that, on the whole, California producers tend to do this better than most, with Australia and Chile not far behind. Another reason for buying California is price: for $6 to $12 you can still buy some nifty everyday bistro wines, the kind that invite a second glass, which is still one of the best tests for any wine.

Each year at this time we pre-taste in preparation for next summer’s “Best of The Best Value Wine” report. As seen below, in California we’ve found terrific values in Fat Cat, Forest Glen, Gallo of Sonoma, Red Truck, and Round Hill. Ditto for Washington, where Columbia Crest’s Grand Estates offers solid wine value. In Chile, don’t miss Casillero del Diablo’s offerings. And no matter what nabobs of negativity say, Australia’s Yellow Tail is a winner and remains one of the best value wines around.

Complaints

We occasionally hear the complaint that these days there is sameness in wines. Nothing could be further from the truth. (The “Dernier Cri” article by Randy Sheahan at the end of this issue speaks to this.) In solid value wines, there is plenty of diversity and a variety of flavors and blends to satisfy the fussiest of consumers. Further, another complaint often heard (usually by French supporters whose wines are not selling well due to the euro) is that value wines don’t exhibit a sense of place, a discernible terroir; it isn’t true. Sourced grapes, well ripened and blended, often do. Generally, most of the people who say such things tend to be wine snobs, and usually judge wine by price and label, not by value.

What to Look For

The beauty to a good value wine is its simplicity and immediacy. There’s no complexity, no great depth, no layers of unraveling flavors. Good value wine comes to you offering balance — blended flavors, some oak (beware of any over-oaked wine because it’s often masking flaws), with little tannin. The flavors are characteristic: plum, chocolate, spice, some oak. The fruit is forward — upfront in mid-palate and immediate. The finish tends to be short, but often satisfying. If it isn’t, you need to find another value wine. Paired with food, these wines, of course, will be even better. Unless money is of no consequence, you can’t afford not to consider these value wines.

$12 and Under

Admittedly, we can keep coming back to several value wines we admire, but we’ve also found some new ones. We blind tasted 52 Cabs. The true test is blind tasting, which we always do. These wines — the old stand-bys and the newer ones — deliver. Don’t concern yourself too much with their vintage. These wines are made to be as consistent as possible, and variation from vintage to vintage is never too pronounced. Drink now; they’re not made to cellar.

Please note: Prices may vary from region to region.

Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Fat Cat, California, $10. Well blended and balanced. Nice texture, full flavors. A positive “buy” for the price.

2004 Forest Glen, California, $11. Makes everybody’s list of great value wines; they also produce good Merlot and Pinot Noir. Ever reliable.

2004 ForestVille California, $6. If you can buy a better value wine for the price, we want to hear about it. Rich, plum, and mocha notes. There’s also a lovely Zinfandel in their collection.

2006 Napa Ridge Napa Valley, $12. It makes our list every year, and for good reason: it’s delicious. They also make a fine Syrah.

Hendry Block 28 is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. This 4.17 acre block is 160 feet above sea level and has thin, stony Boomer Series soils. Morning fog and strong afternoon breezes from San Pablo Bay moderate the maritime climate. The vines were planted in 1995 using St. George roots and grafted with bud wood selected from an old vine Zinfandel vineyard. The vines are spaced 6.9' x 5', cordon trained and spur pruned. A vertical trellis system supports the cordon and the canopy.

In 2002, the median bud break in Block 28 occurred April 6. Median bloom was May 29 and median veraison was August 4. Harvest was October 7 with a yield of 4.0 tons per acre. The alcoholic fermentation was completed in approximately one week in closed fermentation tanks. The wine was pressed and put into barrels for malolactic fermentation. Aging was fourteen months in 100% French oak barrels, 50% were new.

The concentrated dark fruit flavors include black currant, black licorice and bay with hints of black pepper. The French oak is well integrated and adds a layer of toast, tobacco and leather. The wine is full bodied, with very fine tannin structure and a long finish. The alcohol is 15.8%.

Hendry Block 8 is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa.  The vines grow on thin stony soil between 200 and 300 feet above sea level.  Morning fog and strong afternoon breezes from San Pablo Bay moderate the climate.   The vines were planted in 1974.  They are spaced 8’ x 10’, cordon trained and spur pruned.  The clone is U.C.D. 7 grafted to St. George roots.  A seven-foot vertical trellis system supports the cordon and the canopy.  Average production is 2.5 tons per acre.

In 2003, the median bud break in Block 8 was April 1.  Median bloom was June 3 and median veraison was August 12.  The harvest was October 13-16 with a yield of approximately 1.5 tons per acre. The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was aged for 22 months in 90% new French oak barrels.

This Cabernet Sauvignon, similar in profile to the 2002, has layered aromas of black licorice, cigar box, violets, caramel and dark cassis.  Flavors echo the aromas, adding sweet dark berry and cedary fruit, mineral, mint and red dust.  Tannins are present, firm but fine-grained.  The alcohol is 14.5%.

This wine is a blend of 26% Petit Verdot (Block 15), 26% Malbec (Block 14), 22% Cabernet Sauvignon (Block 8), 17% Cabernet Franc (Block 26) and 9% Merlot (Block 13). The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, approximately 70% of which were new.

The diverse components of this wine give it many layers of aroma and flavor. Mint, eucalyptus, bittersweet chocolate, dark cherry, and a floral note of roses are among the many aromas, which echo on the palate. This wine has sophistication, restraint, and complexity. The palate is bolstered and enriched by well-integrated French oak. Tannins add structure and elements of toast and spice. The alcohol is 14.4%.

The Hendry Vineyard is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. The vines grow on thin stony Boomer series soils between 200 and 300 feet above sea level. Morning fog and afternoon breezes from the San Pablo Bay moderate the climate.

This wine is a blend from Hendry's Block 9 (KD Selection), Block 19 (Dijon 96), Block 20 (Dijon 95), and Block 21 (Old Wente Selection). It was whole cluster crushed and fermented in stainless steel. It was not allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and remained in stainless steel until bottling. The beautiful fruit flavors of this wine are accentuated by the absence of oak.

Intense, abundant peach, pineapple, floral and lime aromas form the initial impressions of this 100% stainless steel fermented chardonnay. A complex array of aromas and flavors surround the forward fruit, including herbal notes of green tea and lime leaf, and sweet yogurt and honey. With refreshing acidity and richness of texture, this wine finishes clean and crisp.

 The 2004 Rosé is the result of a saignée of Cabernet Sauvignon. This rosé had a long, cool fermentation in small bins, followed by four months in stainless steel before bottling. Cool fermentation resulted in refreshing and bright clean flavors and aromas of nectarine, banana and white cherry, and a round, delicious mouthfeel. Fermented off-dry, it is a perfect wine for a warm afternoon or with a meal with slightly spicy foods. The alcohol is 14.4%

In 2004, Sokol Blosser discovered a little known Roman goddess, Meditrina. Everyone knows about Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and intoxication. Who knew there was also Meditrina, Roman goddess of wine and health! We couldn't believe that thousands of years ago the Romans had enough savvy to connect wine and health and name a goddess to oversee the two. What happened? Overshadowed for too long by Bacchus's flamboyance, Meditrina deserves to take her rightful place in the wine world. We decided to help her get there by creating a heart healthy red wine in her honor. You can't be serious all the time. Sokol Blosser makes wines that help you kick back and enjoy life. These proprietary wines, Evolution and Meditrina, are spirited, whimsical, and a delicious way to relax and laugh with a group of friends. Meet Meditrina. Cousin of Cupid. Daughter of Apollo. The yin to Bacchus’s yang. Meditrina, the Roman Goddess of Wine. Meditrina is an approachable and easy-to-drink wine that pairs well with food. It’s a wine fit for a Goddess … and anyone else who loves great wine. Meditrina. A perfect marriage of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel that’s juicy, rich and full of fruit. Open a bottle and say marvelous, magnificent or simply Mmmmm. Magnificent… momentous… mind-boggling… Meditrina. Pair with BBQ, Pulled Pork Sandwiches, Charbroiled Chicken w/ Rosemary Mashed Potatoes. Ruby red; a core of rich, lush raspberry from the Syrah. The Zin brings spice. And the Pinot Noir brings flowers and earth. A luscious, juicy, easy-drinking mouthful of wine that's both bright and vibrant yet round and soft. Retail $14-18.

Castello di Brolio sits on a historic three thousand acre Estate in Gaiole in Chianti that was ceded to the Ricasoli family in 1141 by the Republic of Florence. For over 900 years, the Estate has produced some of the most important wines in all of Italy. As the oldest continuously operating winery in the world, Brolio has been pairing wine with food for over 900 years. In that tradition, this flagship wine from the Brolio estate is an excellent match to a variety of foods including, but not limited to grilled chicken and steak. The 2003 vintage provided a late frost and hot summer, which led to a reduced but concentrated crop. The harvest was dry making this wine a perfect example of Sangiovese at its best. Bright ruby red; a subtle bouquet of rose petals opens to dense black cherries and plums followed by a hint of tobacco. This is a juicy wine with black fruit flavors balanced by Chianti Classico’s characteristic earthiness. The finish is long with a transition to tart cherry. Retail $18-24.

The 2004 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay, rated 87-points by Wine Spectator, is medium-light golden yellow, earthy, herbal, green apple aroma with mineral like notes. The flavor is medium intensity with a light, smokey, cedary oak, ripe pear, melon and apple flavors with a hint of mango. It has low tannin, medium body and is very dry. I like this Chardonnay with lightly smoked or grilled dishes that will enhance the flavors imparted by the oak barrels. One of my favorites is a grilled, herb marinated Sea Bass on a bed of white beans and sautéed spinach. The firm acidity in the wine highlights the herbal components of the dish and echoes the earthly character in the wine, while heightening the sweetness of the fish. For those of you who know me also know that I truly enjoy this Chardonnay all by itself too... It retails for between $14-20 or $45-60 in a restaurant or $12-15 per glass.

2001 Au Bon Climat (ABC) Pinot Noir. Displaying more of a berry cast than one normally sees in Pinot, this outgoing effort smells of strawberries with background of black cherries, bacon and dried brush. Somewhat supple and velvety in feel, it tastes of ripe, fairly deep fruit before finding puckery tannins in the finish.

Hanna Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (Russian River). A very cool summer following late rains produced an abundant crop. We thinned three times, dropping unprecedented amounts of fruit on the ground. A cool August allowed slow, even ripening. Harvest began on September 7 with our youngest block and ended on October 3 with our oldest. We picked primarily on flavor. This coincided with a brix range of 21.7 to 23.7

Grapes were hand harvested at night using tractors fitted with lights. The cold fruit was picked into half-ton bins and hauled the short distance to the winery at 5 in the morning. We hand sorted the fruit using a custom made sorting conveyor. The fruit was then whole cluster pressed while still cold. A combination of inoculated and indigenous fermentations were used. The Malolactic fermentation was conducted early to prevent development of buttery aromas. The Wine was aged on the yeast lees until a month before bottling.

Our Estate Sauvignon emphasizes citrus fruit in the aromas and mid palate with a finish broadened by malolactic fermentation. The wine is fresh and grassy with distinctive Sauvignon Blanc character. Retail $14-19

Moschofilero Boutari 2004 (mo-sko-feel-ero). For years Boutari Moschofilero has been an important selling white wine in Greece and, until recently, a virtual unknown in the United States. That was until Tony Terlato discovered it in a blind tasting at Paterno Wines International’s corporate headquarters. From his first sip, he believed this little gem, so rich in flavor, was a secret just waiting to be discovered in the United States. Boutari Moschofilero's explosion in sales supports his initial prediction; national press, leading restaurateurs, wine retailers and consumers across the country have embraced this crisp, refreshing white wine with enticing citrus, floral and melon aromas.

The Boutari winery's vinification of Moschofilero is a breakthrough for Greek wines...and it just might be the start of the next white wine revolution in America! Retail $11 - 19

Alder Brook Zinfandel 2001. "Upper Dry Creek is the grape source of this high-powered Zin that was made from old craggily vines picked at the peak of ripeness. Aged in 100% French oak for 16 months, the structure is broad, elegant and refined. Enjoy this classic expression of Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel." ~ George Christie, General Manager. Retail $18 - 25

Ca'marcanda Promis 2004. Due to its sunny character, Promis is a great success in winebars, restaurants and elegant trattorias, often served as "Gaja wine by the glass." A delightful wine, which combines the elegance and suppleness of Merlot and Syrah with the austerity of Sangiovese. Balanced, almost musical, its a pleasure to drink from an early age with a potential of 5-8 years. Retail $45-55

Bollinger Special Cuvée. Special Cuvée is the purest expression of Champagne Bollinger's style. All the House's know-how is required in order to create, year after year, a blend that is consistent both in style and quality. It has a depth and balance, with rich and toasty aromas. The Bollinger style is very round and mature with a luxurious finish. The first fermentation takes place in small stainless steel tanks and oak barrels, with each cru and grape variety fermented, using traditional yeasts, separately. After a cold stabilization and a light filtering, Special Cuvée is kept at 65°F to induce malolactic fermentation, for softness. Retail $42-65

Altanuta Pinot Grigio 2004 (Italy). Aromas are floral and citrus paving the way for a palate impression of green apple, pear and a sprightly and balanced lemon acidity. Pears well with fish and other seafood (including sushi), it is also perfect by itself as a light aperitif. This wine retails between $12-19.

Camelot Highlands Chardonnay 2004. Tropical flavors (pineapple, mango, and papaya) with a creamy lush rich palate. Notes of cinnamon, candied lime and vanilla crème brûlé created an appealing and lingering sensation. This wine retails between $25-28 and was rated in December 2005 by Wine Advocate an 89-91.

Artezin Zinfandel 2004 (Hess Group). This Zinfandel elicits aromas of jammy blackberries interlaced with spicy nuances including black pepper, cassis, and cloves. Flavors follow through with black cherry and exotic spices while the mouth feel is full and rich with a hint of chocolate on the plush finish. Artezin is a true representation of Zinfandel and a must try. This wine retails between $12-19.

Liberty School Syrah 2004 (Treana Vineyards, Central California). A beautiful deep red with a violet hue; its up-front fruit aromas, flavors of mulberry and blueberry, are complimented by full notes of exotic spice and cigar tobacco. The wine has a robust mineral backbone with well-integrated, silky tannins that finish through the length of the palate. This wine retails between $12-19.

Dow's Tawny Porto, Aged Ten Years. Attractive tawny colour with a classic bouquet of nuts and almonds, finely balanced by some lovely mature fruit. On the palate beautifully rounded, with hints of dried fruits, and an intense nutty finish. Taste slightly chilled to appreciate the full complexity and sensuous pleasure of this wine. This wine retails between $25-35.

Hendry Blocks 9 & 21 Chardonnay 2002 has concentrated ripe tropical fruit flavors of passion fruit and guava. There is substantial weight in the mouth with bright, acidity and a long, intense, ripe fruit and mineral finish. The French oak adds toast and nutmeg flavors which are integrated in the wine, adding an additional layer of complexity. The fruit, acid and spice are very well balanced and delicious. This is definitely a wine I recommend getting for your collection and enjoying for a special treat. This wine sells retail for $35-45 a bottle.

Mettler Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 This cabernet has an approachable yet traditional style. It's fruit forwardness, is balanced by structured tannin. It pairs beautifully with barbecued lamb chops with fresh rosemary, filet medallions and caramelized onions, and is sinfully delicious with dark chocolate. An excellent choice to drink now or cellar. -Gold Medal! - 2006 San Diego National Wine Competition

-Gold Medal! - 2005 Riverside International Wine Competition

-"Should be quite popular!" - The Colorado Wine News - August 2005

-90 Points! - The Wine News - July 2005

This wine sells retail for $22-28 a bottle.

ANATOMY OF A WINE JUDGING

BY A. BRIAN CAIN, THE MICHIGAN VINTNER   

Tasters Guild, an international wine society dedicated to education and appreciation, holds its annual wine judging at the Grand Rapids Community College Applied Technology Center. Wineries from all over the world send over 2000 samples for their best wines to be tasted and judged by the Tasters Guild wine judges. Joe Borrello, local marketing consultant, is Tasters Guild’s managing director and chairman of the judging. Joe Schagrin, of Ft. Lauderdale, is the President of Tasters Guild and serves as Chief Judge.

Three days before the judging begins, Dr. Bruce Scranton’s back room crew catalogs, assigns numbers, and groups the wines in flights of the same grape variety, similar dryness, similar region, and similar price. The actual judging begins on Wednesday and concludes Saturday afternoon.

Each flight goes before a panel of three judges and one audit. The audit is typically a wine enthusiast, student, or other non-professional wine lover. Only the three judges scores are recorded. Each wine is scored on color and clarity, aroma and bouquet, body and flavor, balance, acidity, tannin and aftertaste. On a 20-point scale, anything scoring less than 14 points receives no medal. A wine scoring between 14 and 15.9 receives a bronze medal, between 16 and 17.9 a silver, and anything over 18 points, a gold. With three judges, the majority rules, but, any judge can ask for another panel to re-taste and re-judge it if there is not consensus on which medal should be given. If all three judges score a wine 18-20 points (gold medal) the wine is automatically given to another panel to re-taste and re-score it. If all three of those judges also score it gold, then the wine receives the coveted “double gold” medal. During the course of the judging, numerous wines are given to more than on panel for no other reason other than to be certain that any given panel is not too tired or too “palate fatigued” to critically and accurately evaluate wines. Keep in mind that with over 2000 wines to judge with roughly a third of them judged twice, each judge must taste and score over 100 wines per day!

Every year, there is at least one category of wine that creates a buzz among the judges. Even though the judges taste “blind”, they do know the grape variety, sugar content and approximate price of each wine they judge. This year, the single appellation 2001 California Cabernets lived up to the pre-judging hype that the industry had created. The big surprise came from the generic low cost California Cabernets and Merlots that rarely receive much more than a bronze or occasional silver medal. This year we gave out numerous silvers and a couple of gold medals for wines at the lower end of the price spectrum. Even the now famous “two buck Chuck”, a proprietary wine sold at Trader Joe’s for $1.99, received gold medals for both the Charles Shaw Merlot and Charles Shaw Cabernet Sauvignon!

There is such a glut of fine wine grapes worldwide but especially in California, that even premium Napa and Sonoma appellation grapes are ending up in low cost generic blends. It is a great time to be a wine consumer!

Here are a few of the wines that I scored gold.

UNDER $8

Barefoot California Cabernet Sauvignon, black currant herbal nose, fills the mouth with fruit; long, tannic finish

Carmenet 2001 California Cabernet Sauvignon, potent fruit and complex composty, cedary smells; soft tannins with blackberries in the finish

Jacobs Creek 2003 Australian Grenache/Shiraz, classic vivid raw fruit power of this varietal combo; plenty of structure and texture; compelling drinkability

Kangaroo Ridge 2002 SE Australia Shiraz, complex and brooding; this juicy black fruit filled wine has real aging potential; under $8?!

Kangaroo Ridge 2002 SE Australia Merlot, sweet port-like caramel and cassis nose; long ripe fruity mouth-feel with subtle earthy nuances

Barefoot California Merlot, pure clean fruit with surprisingly rich structure and persistent red fruit presence

Turning Leaf 2002 California Zinfandel, gorgeous, exotic black berry smells; concentrated and fat with a pronounced fruity finish

$8 - $11

Monthaven 2002 Central Coast Chardonnay, rich luxuriant crème brulee and citrus fruit aroma; full body with creamy oak highlighted with peach, pear and quince nuances

Duck Pond 2000 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, brandied cherries in the nose with concentrated black fruit flavor and huge rich velvety tannin

$11-$15

Pedroncelli 2001 Dry Creek “Mother Clone” Zinfandel, dark red with wild berry nose; juicy and loaded with fruit finishing huge and ripe

Barefoot Reserve 2001 Dry Creek Zinfandel, quintessential Zinfandel; lots of red fruit; so easy and juicy the long tannic finish is almost a surprise

Bertani 2002 Soave Classico, Italy, big rich complex fruit smells layered over minerals and striking sense of this Northeastern Italian terroir

Turning Leaf 2001 Central Coast Merlot, clean, classy Bordeaux style with pure simple red fruit essence; rich, round, full of fruit, soft and satisfying

King Estate 2002 Oregon Pinot Gris, fine, precise, Germanic fruit purity; dry and fresh

$15 - $20

Meridian* 2002 Reserve Santa Barbara Syrah, pitch black with perfect varietal aroma; mid-palate is all blackberries balanced by soft velvety texture; a keeper

Chateau Grand Traverse 2000 Reserve Old Mission Peninsula Chardonnay, Grand Cru White Burgundy finesse; plenty of oak with plenty of sweet creamy lemony fruit to support it

Over $20

Gallo 1999 “Frei Ranch” Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, tons of rich Cabernet fruit framed by smoke and earth; Grand Cru pedigree with fine balance; great longevity

J. Lohr 1999 “Hilltop Vineyard” Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, beautiful red robe; hints of mint and earth pinned to huge mouth-filling black fruit and fine tannin

Needless to say, there were dozens of other wines costing more than $20 of startling quality. It doesn’t take a genius to pick out a good bottle of wine in that price range!

*Meridian Vineyards is Tasters Guild Gold Medal Champion for 2004 for having earned nine gold medals and one double gold medal.

Enjoy in Good Health!

Up to $7.00

Mount Pleasant 2005 Pink Catawba, Missouri

This wine of Midwestern grape essence is perfect for the consumer who wants grape wine that tastes like grapes! Though plenty sweet, the combination of 8% residual sugar with ample alcohol provides a balance just about the same as fresh table grapes. Though most would find it too sweet to serve as a table wine, it is a refreshing quaff on a warm summer day.

$7.01 to $10.00

Firelands Isle St. George 2005 Pinot Grigio, Ohio

Bright, pure, racy, cool, northern-grown take on Pinot Grigio. Light notes of apple, melon, hazelnut, and candle wax. Nicely polished presentation. Dry, crisp, and mouthwatering, Granny Smith apple flavor. Attractive fruit smoothness, countered by refreshing apple-peel astringency at the finale. A Wine of Place to match with a Food of Place: Lake Erie walleye.

Lynfred Montmorency Cherry, Illinois

Deep-running Montmorency aromas of maraschino and almond. Intense and rich profile. Sweet, nicely polished fruit. Fine acidity creates a cool composure. Very fine-textured fruit extract aiding in the overall balance of the wine. Incredibly long and thorough aftertaste goes on for half a minute and more. A dessert treat all by itself.

Fenn Valley Blueberry Harvest, Michigan

The best expression of blueberry we've ever enjoyed in a blueberry wine. You get the whole fruit impression, including the dusky peels. Deep, dark, and refreshing

sweet-tart aspect to the aroma. Lots of peel-extract concentration contributing texture and even tannin to balance the wine's sweetness. Epic fruit saturation, definition, complexity. A near-perfect wine. Reduce a cup, ladle over sautéed chicken breasts, and serve with this special wine, lightly chilled.

Lynfred Plum, Illinois

Deep, musky purple-plum and peel aroma that's so rich and concentrated it's like a syrup. Not sticky at all though. In fact, a lovely sense of levity to it. Very pure and intense plum flavor, with an intriguing green-olive note. Good acidity and fruit-peel extracts complete the picture. Try with stir-fried pork in plum sauce.

St. James Friendship School, Semi-Dry White, Missouri

Named for a school building on the winery grounds that used to educate early Italian immigrants. Made from French-hybrid grape varieties. Delicate, uplifting scents of pear, stone fruits, flowers, and powder-puff. Very flavorful; the fruit and flower aromas echo loudly. Mildly sweet, with adequate acidity for balance. Soft and mellow finale. Serve with a fruit salad.

Rosemount 2005 Traminer-Riesling, Southeastern Australia

Traminer contributes a pungent, zesty, candied-ginger scent that couples nicely with the tropical fruit and flowers Australian Riesling profile. Very zesty, ginger nip on the tongue, with a soft balm of fruit sweetness to frost and to sooth it. Very savory aftertaste of rose, ginger, and tropicals. Nice with sweet-and-sour Asian cuisine.

$10.01 to $14.00

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula 2004 Edelzwicker, Michigan

This ‘noble blend' of Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer is an Alsace tradition that Chateau Grand Traverse has skillfully adopted. The zesty aromas of Gewürztraminer sure make their mark: dry and fine fragrances of rose, ginger and orange peel. Muscat shows dried apricot, Riesling offers nectarine and flowers, and the Pinots melon, nut, and paraffin. Complex, complementary fruit mélange of flavors. Near dry and tender in texture, with welcome dash of cleansing astringency to accompany its long, complex aftertaste. Suitable for a wide range of Thai and Indian dishes.

Forestville 2000 Sonoma Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Precisely what a good North Coast Cabernet should be at $10-$14; the berry and ripe, Italian plum-like fruit dominate the nose and continue on to coat the tongue through the very lush, juicy, soft finish. This versatile wine is at home with steaks off the grill, roast chicken or even salmon.

Henry Estate Umpqua Valley 2005 Muller-Thurgau, Oregon

Does Henry Estate produce the consummate American Muller-Thurgau, or what?! And this 2005 is one of its best ever! The classic apple-blossom aroma of this varietal, as bright and beautiful as a spring day in the orchard. Plus an amazing range of spicy extras not often seen in Muller-Thurgau. Dry, cool, tingly, penetrating apple and spices scents. Zesty, spicy tingle in the mouth too. Mild, Kabinett-level sweetness and the usual mild acidity of the varietal. It's the zestiness that counters the sweetness to form a welcome balance. Enjoy with fresh-water fish in a light cream sauce.

Luna Rossa Miabres Valley 2005 Symphony, New Mexico

Seldom-seen hybrid grape variety with Semillon and Traminer parentage. How's that for wine esoteria! Very cool fragrance of rose and cold cream. Finely burnished texture etches the nostrils. Ventilating, precise Symphony characteristics. Big, floral flourish bursts out on the palate, filling every corner of the mouth. Mild sweetness seems to elevate the flavors and saturate the senses. Fine astringency modulates it. Very fresh, very long, lingering finish. Serve with the confectionary, Turkish Delight.

Ecco Domani 2004 Chianti, Italy

Lovely, limpid ruby color characteristic of the ‘04 Tuscan reds (Chiantis are usually garnet). Focused and precise dried-cherry aroma. Lots of anise extras give an enticing springerle impression. Great purity overall. Cherry and anise flavors reverberate. Tender fruit sweetness meets racy fruit acidity. The whole flows gently and cooly through a delicious finish. Enjoy with free-range chicken roasted in a wood-fired oven.

Kiona 2003 Lemberger, Washington

Fresh, soft, and succulent aroma of blue grapes and blueberries.Sweet-scented, ripe and fulfilled. Nice, spicy nip of cracked pepper and clove adds vigor to the smooth fruit texture. Soft acidity–just right in this case–and light tannin. While we've enjoyed several past vintages of Kiona's Lemberger, this 2003 impresses as the most accomplished ever. Serve with lightly pan-fried beef liver.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Noirs Columbia Valley Brut, Washington

The pronounced flinty, yeasty nose with delicate fruit and a soft off-dry palate are juicy and soft enough to enjoy throughout a meal, even dessert!

Wolf Blass 2003 “Yellow Label” Shiraz, S. Australia

The aroma is still just a bit closed, but the really extraordinary peppery complexity cannot be ignored. In the middle of the soft, juicy palate impression, an exotic surprise burst of dried violets and rich seasoned oak surface and then trail off through the fine soft finish. This is a wine to buy by the case. One will never tire or it. It is certainly not too heavy and will pair nicely with just about any savory dish.

Tabor Home NV Marachal Foch Nouveau, Iowa

It has a pretty, bright red color. The nose is full of blueberries and hints of wild grapes. The soft, easy balance of semi-sweet grape flavors and fresh acidity make it a good choice with BBQ ribs or spicy Mexican foods.

Calamity Jane Prairie Berry American Red Table Wine, S. Dakota

Clean as a whistle, pure fruit essence of Native American grapes dominate every aspect of this wine. It is juicy and very grapey without foxy, wet wool character that often detracts from wine made from American grape species. The finish offers an impression of strawberries, almond and maraschino cherries. This is a grape wine intended for “sipping” as the sweet flavor might not work well with most foods.

Simon Creek Vineyards “Untouchable Red” Ruby Cabernet, Wisconsin

Beautiful Bordeaux-like smell of pure Cabernet fruit with earth subtleties in the nose combines with bright, herbal nuances to add complexity to the cherry/berry-like palate impression. The rather fanciful label does not do justice to the serious red wine in the bottle that would be a natural partner to steaks, chops and road kill (just kidding).

Forestville 2000 Sonoma Reserve Merlot, California

A very distinguished nose of fine red fruit and earth continues into the lush, classy palate impression finishing with a long, perfectly balanced finish. Serve it with pepper crusted pork loin or try eggplant parmiginana.

Cask & Cream Superior Caramel Temptation Cream Liquor, California

The strong smell of toasty caramel, sweet cream and hazelnut are both intriguing and inviting. The mouth feel is both creamy and volatile finishing with a warming sensation of homemade condensed milk custard. Serve it as a dessert for a non-filling, sweet finish to any meal.

$14.01 to $18.00

Brotherhood Winery 2004 Finger Lakes Pinot Noir, New York

Fine, pure Pinot fruit, delicate, but persistent, violets and exotic spice essence linger through the soft, velvety finish; a lovely wine with roast poultry such as rosemary seasoned roast chicken or Thanksgiving turkey.

Guenoc Lake County 2002 Petite Sirah, California

An elegant approach to this often dark and frank varietal. Innate loganberry nuance and very attractive oak seasonings elevate it to a higher plane. Fine, forthcoming flavors of oak and fruit. Very smooth feel to it; not a bit rough and tannic. Guenoc continues its string of successes with Petite Sirah. Serve with your best cut of venison.

Bianchi Signature Selection Central Coast 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, California

Full, rich-textured, deep and attractive aromas of gooseberry, grapefruit and pear, nicely mellowed after a year in bottle. Well-textured and full-bodied. Some Sauvignon Blancs begin to tire at this age. This one's still on the ascent, gaining in aromatic and textural interest. Good, racy fruit acidity and welcome astringency. Perfect for aged goat cheese.

Truro Vineyards Cape Cod Lighthouse Cranberry, Massachusetts

Characteristic sweet-tart cranberry fruit identity, pure, concentrated and well balanced in its presentation. Lovely fruit purity of definition. None of the bitterness that accompanies many other cranberry wines (this is not an easy fruit wine to make!). Thanks to good acidity it doesn't come across overly sweet despite its 6% residual sugar. Bring this on with Thanksgiving turkey. In fact, use some for basting too.

Falkner Winery 2002 Temecula Valley Merlot, California

Strawberry, green herbs and terra cotta smells embrace well-focused red fruit and rich mouth coating tannin that lingers. This is a wine to serve with grilled Delmonicos slathered with herb butter.

M. Cosentino 2003 Lodi Dolcetto, California

The big, potent nose full of fruit is greeted by a palate of vivid, red fruit, berry-like bitterness and soft tannins. The finish also possesses a distinct bitter component that would pair nicely with chicken cacciatore or veal scaloppini.

Magnotta Niagara Peninsula 2004 Vidal Ice Wine, Ontario, Canada

Deep, rich golden color prepares one for the avalanche of honey, dried apricots, raisins, cream and almond that fills the nose and cascades across the palate. The almost hot sweetness stays on the palate for several seconds compelling another sip before it vanishes. It is potent enough to enjoy with cigars and glazed pecans.

J. Lohr Paso Robles “Los Osos” 2003 Merlot, California

Earth, pine and spicy red fruit greet the nose while an inner core of black fruit emerges on the palate. That ripe, black fruit balances very ample tannin, too. This is positively a Merlot with a presence and a future. Enjoy it now with a succulent pork roast or in a few years with leg of lamb.

LaVelle 2004 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Oregon

Classic cherry/mushroom Pinot character in the nose is followed by soft lush strawberry-like taste in the middle. The finish is long and soft. It will be a hit with turkey breast or veal escalope.

Henry Estate Umpqua Valley 2004 Pinot Noir, Oregon

Fine, delicate Pinot nose of black cherry with subtle earth and truffle nuances emerges on entry and is followed by a very soft finish. It would make a nice mate for fettuccini Alfredo, flavorful cheese or Beef Stroganoff.

$18.01 to $22.00

Quail Ridge Napa Valley 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Very pretty raspberry and red currant snappiness. Fine oak veneer, polished satin-smooth. Aromas run deep. The finely polished texture confirmed. Attractive herbal highlights. Fine-grained tannins. Juicy, berry-flavored finish. Shows real Napa Valley cabernet finesse. Serve with–what else?–roast quail!

The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey 2004 Merlot, Colorado

Rich black fruit and elderberries mingle with earth and spice. Rich tannin structure gives way to an explosion of more elderberry right up front and throughout the long, velvety, fruit finish. This is an ideal wine with steaks and chops.

Norman 2003 “Conquest” Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Fine, clear, fruit purity in the nose is complimented by rich, soft red berry and black currant-like nuances. The huge tannins at the finish are richer and firmer than they are harsh. The lushness and juiciness in the middle would make rare-cooked venison or rack of lamb a good choice.

Luna 2002 Rossa Mimbres Valley Zinfandel, New Mexico

Deep, dark chocolate/cherry-like smells combine with the soft, juicy, lush palate makes it easy to enjoy. The mild tannin structure would make it a great mate for veal, Cornish hen or turkey.

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Brut, California

The pretty, pale salmon color and the powerful smell of clean limestone and yeast make it immediately appealing. The yeastiness is not toasty, but rather clean and creamy. On the palate, crisp, classy, persistent fruit texture. It’s amazingly fresh without feeling acidic or “sizzling” on the tongue. Serve it as you would any Grand Marque.

$22.01 to $27.00

Husch 2004 Special Reserve Chardonnay, California

Very spicy, floral bouquet, somewhat Viognier-like, with rich, full yellow fruit concentration that stimulates the palate. Like the previous wine, the oak gives the wine a rich feel without any distinct oak flavor getting in the way of the fruit. This wine is also a perfect match for complex seafood or poultry preparations.

Gundlach Bundschu 2003 “Rhein Farm Vyd” Chardonnay, California

Fine, creamy custard-like citrus and stone fruit smells with rich mouth-coating feel carry through with a refreshing acid tang at the very end. Though certainly oak aged, that characteristic is well in the background. Serve this well-balanced gem with any dish that incorporates a butter or cream sauce such as scallops, halibut or chicken.

The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey 2004 Merlot Reserve, Colorado

The reserve has a much bigger sense of its terroir than the “regular” though it does possess the same intense black fruit / elderberry component which will probably dominate the character once the tannin and red clay-like nuances begin to soften and take a back seat. Enjoy it now with simply prepared grilled meat or lay it down for a few years and serve it with complex-flavored, roasted meat like rosemary and lemon-crusted leg of lamb.

Navarro Anderson Valley 2004 Pinot Noir, California

The definition of cool-climate, Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. The fruit is bright and alert, tart and tangy. The oak embellishments are subtle, complex and lovely, adding aromatic nuances such as toast, smoke and warm spices. Very bright, cherry-and-tea pinot flavors. Cool and racy texture. Well-measured acidity and tannin make for a completely lovely experience. Try it with broiled flounder.

Orfila Old Vines 2004 Zinfandel, California

Bright and clear, apple-raspberry aroma, often associated with top Dry Creek Valley zins, though the character is not exclusive to those. The more it airs, the more its beautiful aroma billows forth. Yes, there's that apple-raspberry beauty in the palate, and the cracked black pepper spiciness native to fine zinfandel too. Pure, polished and lovely. You don't need to get fancy here. Hamburgers off the grill will do fine.

$27.01 to $32.00

Bridlewood Santa Ynez Valley 2002 Syrah, California

Deep and lovely aromas. Ripe, rich and loaded with dense, chocolate-laden fruit and lovely oak embellishments. Cherry, blackberry and tobacco flavors alongside oak toasty-spicy characteristics. Very generous, as well as showing aristocratic poise and bearing. Standing rib roast will draw forth its many virtues.

East Valley Vineyard 2003 Fusionnay, California

Of Syrah, Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Lovely, toasty, subtle French aromas supply the introduction, followed by deep-seated fruit essences of the myriad varietals (black raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, and dried cherry), which play together in harmony. Rich, ripe, variegated flavor set. The complex fruit mélange and wonderful oak extras are all seamlessly joined. Fine tannin and vivacious fruit acidity complete a whole that well surpasses the sum of its parts. Fusion indeed! We’d serve it with something simple like roast chicken and let the wine supply the complexity.

Earthquake Lodi 2004 Petite Sirah, California

Extra ripe, smoky, raisiny. All Petite Sirah, all the time. And nothing petite about this baby. Baby Huey, maybe! Ink-like density and opaqueness. Sweet, soft, powerful, all enveloping. Like a warm loganberry pie in your face! And with its oak and power, almost brandy-like. One intense Lodi Petite Sirah. Bring on a mess o' ribs.

Earthquake Lodi 2004 Zinfandel, California

Lodi zin to the max. Warm, but not Central Valley hot. Powerful assault of both fresh and raisined fruit aromas. And candied fruits too. East meets West at Lodi. You get both Coast coolness and Valley warmth.Very bright, definitive Zinfandel flavors of red raspberry and peppercorn, with a licorice nip to boot. Pretty heady stuff at 15.9%, but the alcohol has a cooling rather than burning effect and adds lift to the flavors. Serve with Texas-style BBQ beef brisket.

Earthquake Lodi 2004 Syrah, California

Deep, rich, ripe, regal. Wrapped in velvet of Tyrean purple. Fine vanilla and brown-spice oak extras. Shows all the class of fine California syrah. Generous flavors of black raspberry, oak spices and licorice. Cool, racy relief elevates it. Smooth, melted tannins. Serve with raspberries dipped in dark chocolate.

Black Coyote 2003 Montes Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Exotic elderberry-like nose with intense spice combine on the palate with raw raspberry and rich, if somewhat medicinal, fruit. The huge tannins from mid palate onward would be very food friendly to rare steaks presently and as the tannins tame down, in a few years, it would make a fine partner for chateaubriand.

Rosenblum 2004 Pickett Road Vineyard Petite Sirah, California

Black-red color with huge blackberry fruit tinged with coffee and toasted oak fill the nose while blackberry flavors abound throughout the long, dry finish. It is so lush and full of blackberry fruit that it would pair nicely with game or even spicy meats such as seasoned flank steak.

$32.01 to $40.00

Amity Vineyards 2003 “Schouten Vyd” Pinot Noir, Oregon

Intense, ripe Pinot fruit abounds. It is remarkable not only for its ripe, sweet smell, but also for the lush mouth feel and long velvety tannins that coat the tongue. This wine will continue to develop for the next five years, but is so well-balanced right now that it will be a big hit with well-seasoned rack of lamb or prime rib.

Osprey’s Domaine 2002 N. Fork Long Island Merlot Reserve, New York

It has a huge, warm nose with soft, lush, red fruit and forest smells. On the palate, rich red fruit provides an ideal foil for duck or venison. Yet, the texture is soft enough to enjoy with traditional Thanksgiving turkey.

Rosenblum Monte Rosso Vineyard 2004 Zinfandel Reserve, California

Deep scents of vanilla-coated black raspberries accompanied by the zesty, peppery, briary aromas of raspberry seeds. Fine set of oak spices adds further complexity. Great focus and precision to the red raspberry flavors. Sweet, soft puree of raspberries, vanilla, and baking spices. Old-vines concentration and vigor. Beautifully crafted and composed. Enjoy with chicken in a sweet, not-too-spicy barbecue sauce.

Jost 2005 Ortega Ice Wine, Nova Scotia, Canada

Intensely focused dried fruit and honey greets the nose. Powerful fruit/honey resin grips the palate and coats the mouth staying for several seconds. Though one naturally assumes that dessert wine goes with dessert, ice wine’s fresh acidity which keeps it in balance may work better as an after dinner drink by itself or with coffee than with sweet confections or custards.

$40.00+

Mission Hill “SLC” Okanogan Valley 2004 Riesling Ice Wine, British Columbia, Canada

The crystal clear floral Riesling fruit purity is hard to believe at this level of ripeness. Potent caramel, Cherry Jubilee and honey surround every sip. This a profound wine to simply sip and enjoy.

Conn Creek 2002 Anthology, California

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 3% Petit

Verdot–anthology indeed! On entry, deep, cool, minty, discreet and as noble as Tyrean purple. With airing, the fruit becomes large and powerful. Here the wine's refined oak statement comes forth, showing nuances of vanilla, smoke and warm spices. Very silky textured, with juicy fruit acidity and ample but polished tannins. Everything's well integrated, but there remains some youthfulness. Cellar another year or two and bring out to serve with ribeye steaks.

V. Sattui Morisoli Vineyard 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Fine, high-toned fruit of sour cherry and cranberry greet the nose while long, rich, soft tannin and juicy fruit essences make this civilized wine good company with flat iron steak or lamb chops.

St. Supery Elu Napa Valley 2001 Red, California

Warm, ripe, savory, and powerfully built in the 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet style. Nearly liqueur-like concentration of fabulous fruit essences (blackberry, black currant) coupled with oak and oak char notes that give brandied-fruit extras. Very pure fruit expression of blackberry and black currant embellished with rich oak savor. Full, fine-grained tannins coat the palate. Great cellar potential, though it could be served now with a big, brawny beef dish.

Hartwell Stags Leap District 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Totally romantic, gracefully alluring perfume. A whole bouquet of flowers. Lovely blackberry fruit clarity. Fine French-oak subtleties. Shows claret-like Stags Leap District coolness, race, grace, and finesse. Good acidity and fruit extracts. The finest of fine tannins. Great fulfillment and length. An aristocrat through and through. Only Chateaubriand will do.

Raymond Generations Napa Valley 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Ripe and powerful on the approach, with ample, forthcoming 2002 fruit richness. A big Napa Valley cabernet replete with vanilla, toast, and wood-spice barrel augmentations. Ventilating licorice highlight. Full, sweet cabernet fruit of 2002. Great scope and power. Plenty juicy too. These elements of freshness and finesse are innate to Raymond wines. Crown of lamb, please.

CE2V M. Cosentino 2002 Meritage, California

Black fruit and black dust merge at the instant this wine touches the tongue. A great mouth filling burst of passion fruit and soft, velvety tannin stay right to the end. It is a great wine now and for a decade or more to serve with simple or complex hearty dishes.

© 2007 Tasters Guild Orlando