Old World and Proud of It
Argentina's Luigi Bosca winery doesn't pander to fads.
Nick’s Pick has been liquor in the past; but this pick I want to pick some grapes… The wine world and wine markets are strange, unpredictable places. Attempting to determine the next latest glamorous boutique wine, or the latest glamorous region, or even guessing what's in and what's not becomes tiresome and bewildering. A decade or more ago, for example, few could have predicted that Argentina would be producing a "Super Argentine," in the manner of a Super Tuscan. Of course, good, reliable, value Argentine wines would have been an easy prediction and expectation. But great? In the ranks, say, of a Bordeaux Great Growth, or Tuscany's Sassicaia, or Napa's red blends? Hardly. Yet, this is the case, and 2005 Icono Luigi Bosca (Mendoza, $150) is the very paradigm of a "Super Argentine." Cabernet Sauvignon, with its tannin and complexity, is the reason for the new "super" wines, and the Icono is no exception, having nearly equal amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Before discussing Icono (icon in English) and other Luigi Bosca wines, a few words about the winery. It was started in 1901 by the Arizu family, and has the oldest vineyards in the country. By the 1960s, it became one of the leading Argentine properties, run by the third and fourth generations of the Arizu family. The property is small (about 1750 acres); it's quality driven, receiving the first official DOC in Argentina and South America; they specialize in Malbec, of course, but also Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, as well as serious white wines (which is a less than secondary market in Argentina), producing sumptuous Sauvignon Blanc, Torrontes (a descendant of the Albarino grape), and Viognier. Alberto Arizu sums it up succinctly: "We are a traditional winery, yet continuous innovation and an unwavering spirit of work have allowed us to stand firmly on extremely sophisticated markets, offering wines with a personality and a style of their own that depict the essence of Mendoza's terroir, while reflecting the style of Argentina, its people and culture."
We reviewed nine Luigi Bosca wines available in the United States market. Production is modest, demand is high, and allocation — especially for Icono — should be expected. While we dislike numerical ratings, it perhaps should be noted that the Man from Maryland gave Icono a "95," and, since the United States consumer bows to numerical ratings, the wine will be hard to find, more than likely scooped up by collectors and restaurants. Nonetheless, the search is worth the effort.
The Wines
Reds
- 2005 Icono Luigi Bosca, $150. A blend of Malbec (54%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (46%) — a modern Super Argentine wine. The vines average 90 years. Aged in French Allier oak barrels. Well integrated: an aura of violet in the aroma with blackberry and black cherry, plums, oak, and substantial tannin. Much the same on the palate, with gorgeous weight and texture. Smooth and velvet finish that lasts and lasts. Volatile tannins. The wine needs time — lots of it!
- 2004 Finca Los Nobles Luigi Bosca: Malbec, Verdot, $62. Blend of Malbec and Petit Verdot. 90-year-old vines. Violet, plums, spice and oak in the aromas, which are even more pronounced in the palate. Medium tannins, with lots of life ahead. In the lengthy finish, nice lacing of vanilla and currants, which accompanies rich blackberry and mocha notes. Big body; gentle finish. Very fine.
- 2007 Gala 2 Luigi Bosca: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, $40. 85% Cabernet, with some Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Firm structure, lots of spine. Easy elegance. Rich blackberry, some hints of cherry, toasty oak-spice, and plum. Firm texture. Another lovely and lengthy finish.
- 2007 Luigi Bosca: Malbec D.O.C., $25. 100% Malbec. As with most Luigi Bosca reds, violets in the aroma. Cherry, black grape, and plum in bouquet. Light evolving tannins; flavors are a bit muted during our tasting, but mocha, spice, plum and berry unfolding in the finish.
- 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva: Malbec, $21. Good, serviceable wines, sensibly priced. 100% Malbec. Drink now. Pepper spice, oak and berry in the aromas. Much the same in flavors. Easy, approachable, delicious. Excellent value.
- 2008 Luigi Bosca Reserva: Pinot Noir, $21. Strawberry and raspberry bouquet, with spice and easy oak. Chocolate notes and berry in the finish. Smooth and stylish finish.
- 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva: Cabernet Sauvignon, $21. 100% Cabernet. Robust aromas of blackberry and mocha, which are unfolding in the flavors. Assertive at present. Give it time. Wine has an excellent future.
Whites
- 2007 Gala 3 Luigi Bosca: Viognier, Chardonnay, Riesling, $36. Pricey wine, but a worthy experience. Sensuous floral bouquet. Flavors of peach, apricot, vanilla, and soft oak, all nicely put together.
- 2009 Luigi Bosca Reserva: Sauvignon Blanc, $21. A varietal that doesn't usually interest us, but this one does. Earthy, balanced, with refreshing acidity, tropical fruit, that invites a second glass. Great value
Factoid: Hugo Stabio of Luigi Bosca Winery relates that there are no native grapes in Argentina. He says that in the 1870s immigrants came to work the land and ate raisins. They threw the seeds over their shoulders. The seeds took root, and the vine grew wild; people noticed and said, "we could grow grapevines here."
