Return to Glory

Robert Mondavi is back on top

under winemaker Genevieve Janssens.

Richard Paul Hinkle

In the nearly four decades I knew Bob Mondavi two images stand head and shoulders above all others. One is of playing tennis with him. Short, bowlegged and ungainly, he had nothing when it came to "form." But his tiger-like tenacity was sufficient to overcome what he lacked in style. For Bob, substance was everything.

The second was his oft-quoted (at least to me) sense of vision and foresight and optimism: "The great wines of today are the mediocre wines of tomorrow." That was Bob's way of saying that we need to be constantly on the alert for new and better ways of doing things. That was Bob's way of saying that complacency doesn't cut it in a market that is world-wide in scope and as modern as the moisture probes we now use to measure a soil's water retention. That was also Bob's way of saying that the past (and the present) is only prelude, that continual quality improvement is the only way to survive in a continually more competitive world.

When Bob built his mission-styled winery in Oakville in 1966 it was the first new winery of any size erected in the Napa Valley since the end of Prohibition more than three decades earlier. Today, more than 95 percent of all the wineries in Napa Valley ... were built after 1966. Bob's been gone more than two years now, but his legacy lives on. Constellation now owns the winery and, as you'll see by the tasting notes, there has been no letup in fashioning wines that will only become mediocre with an extensive passage of time.

Much of the credit for that circumstance may be laid at the doorstep of Genevieve Janssens, director of winemaking, who was born in Morocco but raised in France. "I was lucky," she says modestly. "At the University of Bordeaux I was able to study with three men who some call the 'three fathers' of modern winemaking: Jean Ribereau-Gayon, his son Pascal Ribereau-Gayon and Emile Peynaud."

Janssens says that she has always liked Mondavi's insistence on constantly seeking to improve things. "Mr. Mondavi always said that great wines come from great vineyards, and we consider our To Kalon Vineyard the first growth of Napa Valley. A lot of attention is put into this vineyard. Constellation has put in place a ten-year replant plan, effective last year. We are focusing on associating the right rootstock to the right soil — after in-depth soil analysis, digging holes, studying the potential of each site — and planting new clones. In 2007 we planted 22 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon with our Heritage clone, which was already planted at To Kalon in 1945, and maybe before that. In 2000 we invested in a new state-of-the-art winery dedicated to our handling our best vineyards with extra care, using gravity flow and maximum gentleness in handling the fruit."

When Tim Mondavi was in charge of winemaking, a lot of time and attention was given to the testy, troubling Pinot Noir, with big strides made starting in the mid-1970s. "We're still working hard on that one," says Janssens with a laugh. "We've developed a winery-within-a-winery in our barrel storage facility for our Reserve Pinot Noir. We have open top stainless steel fermenters of very small capacity, from one-ton to six-tons, and use the pigeage [submerged cap] technique to extract the juice with maximum gentleness. The grapes arrive in small containers, are sorted and only slightly crushed after de-stemming. They go into tanks via gravity flow and about 20 percent are fermented whole-cluster. The maceration is about three weeks at a temperature of 31°C, followed by ten months in French oak. Our regular 'Napa Valley' Pinot Noir gets only six months in French oak."

The key, she says, is to prevent oxidation to the grapes and their juice. "We do not rack during the aging process. The wine goes directly from barrel to the bottling tanks. We have to be gentle but firm when we do extraction. We have learned to pick the grapes a bit on the early side of maturity. Some blocks can handle later maturity, but in the Carneros waiting too long can bring some undesirable flavors, like that of over-ripe strawberries. We prefer the sweet cherry, the black raspberry — pure fruit and fresh acidity, concentrated and elegant. That's what Pinot Noir is supposed to be."

Janssens says that her European education was no disadvantage. "It was all pluses, all positive. It certainly has given me a different perspective. That culture is a means to extend my knowledge and share it with our winemaking team here. We like to hire seasonal oenology students who come here for the crush from all over — Europe, South America, Australia — and they get to see our world and share theirs with us. I have learned that New World winegrowing regions cannot repeat European traditions without first doing an in-depth analysis of their effects. You have to remember this: Often, traditions from, say, Bordeaux, come from obstacles of the past that are no longer based on sound winemaking principles and practices. One example: Many châteaux have had their barrel cellars in direct contact with the dirt. That might have made sense 200 years ago, as it was the only way to temper the external heat during the summertime. They would sprinkle some water around as a means of refreshing the cellar. Those rooms were located deep in the ground. Today, it doesn't really make any sense to try and build such a cellar. It might be very romantic, but in a practical sense it just doesn't work. As Mr. Mondavi says, what used to be great will become mediocre if you don't continually keep moving forward."

The Wines

Tuscany is a treasure trove of great red wine, as these 11 demonstrate.

“Super Tuscan” is one of those wine terms that doesn’t seem to have a clear definition. It was originally coined to describe a class of non-appellation red wines that originated in Chianti during the 1970s and early-1980s. These wines were a radical new take on Chianti, as they contained no portion of white juice, which the law required back then, but were made wholly from red grapes. Some used 100% Sangiovese, Chianti’s most prominent red grape; some blended Sangiovese with non-traditional red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and some went so far even as to use only non-traditional red grapes. The idea was that by dispensing with white juice, by experimenting with non-traditional grapes and by employing new winemaking techniques, such as small-barrel aging (up to that time Chianti had always been aged in large casks), the quality of Chianti would be greatly enhanced — which indeed proved to be the case. But there was a problem: These revamped Chiantis — excellent as they might be — could not, under law, be called Chianti, and so were forced to label themselves Vino da Tavola, “Table Wine,” a designation given to low-end wines of uncertain origin. Yet this did not deter wine journalists, who struck by the quality of the new offerings, were soon calling the wines “Super Tuscans.”

Eventually, an all-inclusive appellation, IGT, or Indicazione Geographica Tipica, was created for such wines. In addition, the laws governing Chianti were changed in the mid- and late-1980s. No longer was white juice required to be part of the blend, but the wines had to be at least 80% Sangiovese (or 100%, if the producer so desired) and could include up to 20% non-traditional red varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Syrah). This meant that many of the original Super Tuscans could now call themselves Chianti if they wished — though most chose not to do so, preferring instead to retain a singular identity.

The Super Tuscan tag has also been given to a host of wines that, although of high merit, are not truly “Super Tuscans” — at least according to the definition outlined above. For instance, wines such as Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Guado al Tasso from western Tuscany’s Bolgheri region are often grouped among the Super Tuscans. Yet unlike their Chianti counterparts, they were never forced to reinvent themselves. Indeed, what are non-traditional grapes for Chianti — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah — have always been traditional in Bolgheri, while white juice has never been part of the official blend. Moreover, the wines of Bolgheri have their own specific DOC or controlled appellation, a distinct step up from IGT and Vino da Tavola. As such, they have a clear identity of their own and don’t really need the Super Tuscan crutch.

But that said, when QRW sat down recently to taste a batch of Super Tuscans, we included several Bolgheri wines and one Sant’Antimo (a new appellation in southern Tuscany’s Montalcino zone) offering in the mix. That’s only because it has become — incorrectly, in our opinion — the accepted protocol to do so. But enough editorializing. Here are 11 red wines from Tuscany that, whatever you may call them, are truly super.

2004 Cabreo Il Borgo (IGT), $55.

70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, deep color; big, deep, powerful, black fruit, anise, mineral and toasty oak flavors — definitely for the long haul. BEST OF SHOW

2000 Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Lamaione (IGT), $55.

100% Merlot. Medium-deep color; pure, elegant, well-knit, highly focused, black fruit and mocha flavors.

2005 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (Bolgheri Sassicaia), $215.

85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Deep color; deep, rich, chewy, black fruit, mineral, toasted nut and French roast flavors — a bold beauty.

2004 Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio (IGT), $65.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, deep color; big, deep, powerful, black fruit, mineral and French roast flavors.

2004 Castello Banfi Excelsus (Sant’ Antimo), $70.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Deep color; big, rich, firm, well-structured, claret-like, black fruit, anise and French roast flavors.

2007 Carpineto Dogojolo (IGT), $11.

70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and other varietals. Medium-deep color; big, rich, juicy, earthy, utterly delicious, black fruit and mocha flavors. BEST VALUE

2005 Il Greppi Greppicante (Bolgheri), $54.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Medium-deep color; rich, ripe, elegant, juicy, black fruit, mineral and coffee flavors.

2001 Ornellaia (Bolgheri Superiore), $175.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Medium-deep color; rich, earthy, elegantly knit, blackberry, mocha and toasted nut flavors.

2006 Tenuta San Guido Le Difese (IGT), $25.

70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese. Medium-deep color; nice, tight, pure, well-focused, blackberry and French roast flavors.

2006 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto (IGT), $55.

45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese. Medium-deep color; ripe, pure, elegant, deliciously silky, blackberry, mocha and vanilla flavors.

2004 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio (IGT), $54.

100% Sangiovese Grosso. Medium-deep color; soft, rich, texturous, elegantly knit, black fruit and mocha flavors.

Top Ten Wines of the Century

Some of QRW’s best known writers

offer their top wines of the 20th Century.

We have turned to some of our experts to inquire about their choices for the top ten wines they have tasted from the 20th-century. Their wine choices could come from any country, from any varietal. Some had no trouble listing their top ten, while others agonized. Clive Coates had no doubts and found it “relatively easy,” listing nine French and one German. Michael Broadbent found it a very thoughtful experience and even offered to list his top ten runners-up, a request not in keeping with the assignment. Hence, his top ten came with few sighs, yet is a generous and far-reaching list. Randy Sheahan, QRW’s editor, has a well known palate and has spent his days tasting the “greats,” but found that revising his list made for not a little neurosis. Eleanor and Ray Heald said “it was easy; we just sat down, talked, and never used our notebook—somehow, we believe that’s a true measure of great wine.”

Michael Broadbent, Master of Wine

Clive Coates, Master of Wine

Jeff Frees

Eleanor and Ray Heald

Randy Sheahan, Editor, QRW Editor

Richard L. Elia, Publisher, QRW

The Ice Wine Cometh...

Wanted: Workers with a gentle touch, but muscular arms; nocturnal vision; appreciation of working outdoors in sub zero temperatures. If interested in creating one of the world’s most expensive, exclusive and quintessential products, please reply to the nearest winery in Ontario, Canada, Northern Michigan or Upstate New York.

Ice wine. The Germans do it. The Canadians do it better. And the New Yorkers and Michiganders are quickly and successfully learning how to make this rich, lush, silky kiss of fruit and earth which is often described as “Heaven in a glass.”

What is it about this non-denominational wine that brings on descriptions of a higher Spirit? Perhaps it is because the entire life, or hope of life, for a grape to become an Ice Wine is completely dependent upon Mother Nature.

“I believe any year you can produce Ice Wine is a spectacular year,” says Mark Johnson, winemaker at Chateau Chantal in Traverse City, Michigan. “It means that you were able to get your grapes through an entire season without any disease problems.”

Mark looks for grapes that can survive 15°F temperatures, birds, raccoons, wind, sleet or snow. Those that STILL cling to the vine are the ones he wants.

The vintage of 2007 was stellar for the up and coming Ice Wine producers in North America. Great eiswein is made virtually every year in Germany and Ontario as both experience bitterly cold winters and grow grapes with the skins to “hang on” until the water in the grape berries freeze. What remains in the fruit is concentrated grape juice made up of about 35% natural fruit sugar. That means leaving grapes such as Riesling, Vidal, Cab Franc and Niagara, on the vine until mid-winter because Federal labeling rules specify that the grapes must be picked frozen and not frozen after they leave the vine.

Vintners hand-pick their precious grape bunches when the temperature is well below freezing and they do so in the late night/early morning hours so not even one tiny ounce of sunshine might cause a smidgen of thaw in the grapes.

The ice-covered grapes allow the pure fructose-laden juice to run free when it is delicately pressed in the frozen state. The flavors, acidity and sugar are so concentrated the juice is visually and financially “Liquid Gold.”

Thank Mother Nature for the 2007 crop. “It was the best harvest in 15 years,” says Jim Trezise of the New York Wine Grape Foundation. New York still wines are highly coveted and its Ice Wine maidens are no exception. A dozen vintners take the time and risk to produce this sumptuous wine.

“Heron Hill, Casa Larga, Wagner for Riesling or Vidal Ice Wines. Lakewood does some Native American Ice Wines that are quite good too,” says Trezise.

Johnson says his Riesling grape crop was exceptionally healthy in 2007. “You need a grape with a relatively thick skin to hang on the vine for such a long time and not shrivel up.” Chateau Chantal is also experimenting with some other unnamed hybrids to blend with its Riesling.

Meanwhile at Chateau Thomas Winery in Plainfield, Indiana, winemaker Dr. Charles Thomas is processing some Cabernet Franc juice and plans to create a Cab Franc Ice Wine for release in April, 2008.

“Currently we sell a Lake Erie Vidal Blanc Ice Wine that was harvested on January 20, 2007 with 39 brix and a residual of 17. The grapes were picked and pressed at 23 degrees.” Those numbers are what Thomas says creates the rich, delicious wine with aromas and flavors of apricots and peaches. Finding that balance means supply and demand dictates the price.

At Chateau Chantal, a one-ton harvest of grapes usually produces 175 gallons of wine. A one-ton harvest of ice wine grapes makes about 40 gallons. A 375ml bottle of Chateau Chantal Riesling Ice Wine sells for $60.00

“It’s not always a money making venture, but the fact that it is truly unique to the coolest regions of the wine world and the fact that it tastes so darn good make it logical to continue, “ says Johnson.

Look for the 2007/2008 harvested Ice Wines this coming summer.

Paso Robles Wines

Cowboys and fine wine definitely go together. In Paso Robles, the Wild West of California wine, they especially do! Here you'll find a spirited mix of ranches, outlaw lore and some killer wines for criminally good prices. And it goes without saying, Paso Robles reds pair excellently with summer barbecue feasts.

Rhymes with "lasso"

Locals call Paso Robles simply "Paso," which rhymes with "lasso." How perfect for a region that's held fast to its colorful western identity. In this area where ranches thrive aside vineyards, campfire talk could easily turn from talk of prize steers to praise for the region's latest, greatest Petite Sirah.

Pass the oaks, please

Lying along California's Central Coast, nearly halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Paso Robles' landscape gently melds vineyards, orchards and rolling ranch lands. Oak trees dotting the vista lend their name to the region, once called "El Paso de Robles," or, The Pass of the Oaks.

By the numbers

These days, Paso ranks as California's fastest growing wine area, and one of its most diverse and innovative, as well. Over the past 10 years, the number of wineries stampeded from just 35 to almost 170. And Paso's star-studded lineup of grape varieties numbers more than 40.

Paso bucks the climate trend

While most of California's Central Coast sports a chilly climate, Paso takes the road less traveled with summer days that edge toward branding-iron hot. Yet, heat alone does not make fine wine. Paso keeps its cool with phenomenal 40- to 50-degree overnight temperature drops throughout the main growing season -- the largest swing of any California wine region.

This hot day/cool night two-step means that Paso's grapes luxuriate on the vine for an exceptionally long time before picking. Grapes develop opulently distinctive flavors while maintaining plenty of crisp acidity.

Wines to watch

Jesse James reportedly hid out in Paso, relaxing his bones between robberies at the sulfur hot springs in town. Today, however, the good guys thrive: The Rhône Rangers.

Rhône varieties

These dynamic winemakers seized the area's potential for producing rich, satisfying wines from grapes traditionally grown in France's Rhône region -- notably, Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne. From 1994 to 2006, the number of acres planted leapt from 100 to 2,200 as wine lovers everywhere started to raise their glass and say, "fill 'er up, pardner!"

Uncommon commoners

Rhône varietals, however, are not the only cards on the table. Aficionados have adored Paso's plush, satisfying Zinfandels for years. Cabernet Sauvignon claims top spot as the most widely planted in the region, helping to slake the world's thirst for this ever-popular style. Keep your eye out for Petite Sirah as well -- Paso winemakers pride themselves on their bright and lusciously fruity takes on this grape.

Beautiful blends

Exciting Bordeaux- and Rhône-style red wine blends also corral their share of praise. Yet true to the area's outlaw heritage, winemakers gladly push boundaries -- and make names for themselves -- by blending uncommon partners, such as Syrah and Zinfandel, into head-turning bottles too.

Best of all, while quality ranks consistently high, the area remains under the radar for many consumers. That means prices haven't jumped into the ultra-premium territory claimed by regions such as Napa and Bordeaux.

Go to pasowine.com and get the skinny on Paso Robles wines.

The Official 1855 Clasification

By Thomas Matthews

In 1855, Napoleon III, emperor of France, decided to throw a Universal Exposition in Paris, a kind of world's fair, and wanted all the country's wines represented. He invited Bordeaux's Chamber of Commerce to arrange an exhibit. The members of the chamber knew a hornet's nest when they saw one, so they passed the buck. They agreed, according to their records, to present "all our crus classés, up to the fifth growths," but asked the Syndicat of Courtiers, an organization of wine merchants, to draw up "an exact and complete list of all the red wines of the Gironde that specifies in which class they belong."

The courtiers hardly even paused to think; two weeks later, they turned in the famous list. It included 58 chateaux: four firsts, 12 seconds, 14 thirds, 11 fourths and 17 fifths. They expected controversy. "You know as well as we do, Sirs, that this classification is a delicate task and bound to raise questions; remember that we have not tried to create an official ranking, but only to offer you a sketch drawn from the very best sources."

Curiously, all of the courtiers' selections came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (they also ranked the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac). It's not that other wine regions weren't active; the Graves boasted a much longer history, and Cheval Blanc in St.-Emilion and Canon in Fronsac were highly regarded by the early 19th century. But the 18th century revolution in wine quality took hold first and most firmly in the M?doc.

Reaction to the classification was heated. The courtiers' original list ranked the chateaux by quality within each class, so, for example, Mouton-Rothschild appeared at the head of the seconds. But undoubtedly responding to criticism, they wrote the chamber in early September insisting that no such hierarchy had been intended, so the chamber rearranged the list of each class into alphabetical order.

Since 1855, many changes have occurred in the chateaux's names, owners, vineyards and wine quality, and because of divisions in the original estates, there are now 61 chateaux on the list. But if an estate can trace its lineage to the classification, it retains its claim to cru classé status. The only formal revision came in 1973, when after half a century of unceasing effort Baron Philippe de Rothschild succeeded in having Mouton elevated to first growth.

--Excerpted from an article by Thomas Matthews.

The Official 1855 Classification

(Modern names are in parentheses)

Chateau:Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac

Chateau Latour Pauillac

Chateau Margaux Margaux

Chateau Haut-Brion Pessac, Graves (since 1986, Pessac-Leognan)

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (became a first growth in 1973) Pauillac

Chateau Rausan-Segla (Rauzan-Segla) Margaux

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies Margaux

Chateau Leoville Las Cases St.-Julien

Chateau Leoville Poyferre St.-Julien

Chateau Leoville Barton St.-Julien

Chateau Durfort-Vivens Margaux

Chateau Gruaud-Larose St.-Julien

Chateau Lascombes Margaux

Chateau Brane-Cantenac Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron Pauillac

Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

(Pichon-Longueville-Lalande) Pauillac

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien

Chateau Cos d'Estournel St.-Estephe

Chateau Montrose St.-Estephe

Chateau Kirwan Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau d'Issan Cantenac.Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau Lagrange St.-Julien

Chateau Langoa Barton St.-Julien

Chateau Giscours Labarde-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau Malescot St. Exupery Margaux

Chateau Cantenac-Brown Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau Boyd-Cantenac Margaux

Chateau Palmer Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau La Lagune Ludon (Haut-Medoc)

Chateau Desmirail Margaux

Chateau Calon-Segur St.-Estephe

Chateau Ferriere Margaux

Chateau Marquis d'Alesme Becker Margaux

Chateau St.-Pierre St.-Julien

Chateau Talbot St.-Julien

Chateau Branaire-Ducru St.-Julien

Chateau Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Pauillac

Chateau Pouget Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau La Tour Carnet St.-Laurent (Haut-Medoc)

Chateau Lafon-Rochet St.-Estephe

Chateau Beychevelle St.-Julien

Chateau Prieure-Lichine Cantenac-Margaux (Margaux)

Chateau Marquis de Terme Margaux

Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac

Chateau Batailley Pauillac

Chateau Haut-Batailley Pauillac

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse Pauillac

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac

Chateau Lynch-Moussas Pauillac

Chateau Dauzac Labarde (Margaux)

Chateau Mouton-Baronne-Philippe (Chateau d'Armailhac after 1989) Pauillac

Chateau du Tertre Arsac (Margaux)

Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal Pauillac

Chateau Pedesclaux Pauillac

Chateau Belgrave St.-Laurent (Haut-Medoc)

Chateau Camensac (Chateau de Camensac) St.-Laurent (Haut-Medoc)

Chateau Cos Labory St.-Estephe

Chateau Clerc-Milon Pauillac

Chateau Croizet Bages Pauillac

Chateau Cantemerle Macau (Haut-Medoc)

(Modern names are in parentheses)

Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes

Chateau La Tour Blanche Bommes (Sauternes)

Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey Bommes (Sauternes)

Clos Haut-Peyraguey (Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey) Bommes (Sauternes)

Chateau de Rayne-Vigneau Bommes (Sauternes)

Chateau Suduiraut Preignac (Sauternes)

Chateau Coutet Barsac

Chateau Climens Barsac

Chateau Guiraud Sauternes

Chateau Rieussec Fargues (Sauternes)

Chateau Rabaud-Promis Bommes (Sauternes)

Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud Bommes (Sauternes)

Chateau Myrat (Chateau de Myrat) Barsac

Chateau Doisy Daene Barsac

Chateau Doisy-Dubroca Barsac

Chateau Doisy-Vedrines Barsac

Chateau D'Arche Sauternes

Chateau Filhot Sauternes

Chateau Broustet Barsac

Chateau Nairac Barsac

Chateau Caillou Barsac

Chateau Suau Barsac

Chateau de Malle Preignac (Sauternes)

Chateau Romer (Chateau Romer du Hayot) Fargues (Sauternes)

Chateau Lamothe Sauternes

Thanksgiving:

As wine-lovers, it’s easy to over-think the way we pair foods and wines. Certainly, a great match -- such as a juicy steak and a bold Cabernet Sauvignon or zippy fresh goat cheese and a racy Sauvignon Blanc -- can bring exciting revelations in how wine makes food taste better, and vice versa.

But there are times when it’s just as important to match the wine to the occasion itself -- and to the guests who will partake in the fun. Weddings and New Year’s Eve celebrations, for example, demand a sparkling wine no matter what’s on the menu. Summer barbecues plead for lighter wines, even if you’re serving big red meats. And if your grandmother drinks only White Zinfandel, it doesn’t make sense to bring on a Cab with her steak -- pour her a glass of the pink if that’s what she wants.

Thanksgiving is one of those occasions where it might be more important to look at who’s com­ing rather than what’s on the table. After all, can you really find a wine that matches everything from Aunt Georgia’s creamed onions to Cousin Sharon’s oyster dressing to the morel mushroom quiche your sophisti­cated neighbor brings to the spread?

Of course, one strategy is to reach for Pinot Noir -- it’s one of the most versatile, food-friendly wines around, and it likely won’t clash with anything. With their juicy fruit, bright acidity and silky texture, Pinots from California, Oregon and New Zealand can be out-and-out crowd-pleasers -- perfect when you’re hosting a houseful.

Indeed, Pinot has been the shoo-in Thanksgiving wine for a few years running. But if you’re ready to veer off that path and want to match your wines more specifically to your guests, try these choices.

Sweeter Wines for the Less Experienced: Your great aunt Sally may have sipped a few highballs in her day, but she may not yet be a wine-lover. Newcomers to the wine world often prefer fruitier, sweeter wines, so for that crowd, stock up on sweeter styles of Riesling (check the label -- those with under 10% alcohol will be noticeably sweet) and off-dry styles of Chenin Blanc. For a little sparkle, offer Moscato d’Asti.

Beaujolais for Everybody: Few wines in the world can please serious wine connoisseurs and casual wine drinkers alike, yet Beaujolais -- a French wine made from the Gamay grape -- is a real charmer in both realms. Aficionados enjoy it for its complex minerality, while less-experienced drinkers love its vivacious cherry-berry notes and charismatic hints of flowers and spice. Everyone will appreciate the way this lighter-bodied wine doesn't weigh them down when paired with heavy holiday foods.

Invite Some Italians to the Party: It turns out that two classic Italian wines match Thanksgiving beautifully. Pinot Grigio, a white with mild peach and citrus notes, will provide an appealing pre-dinner drink. When it’s time to carve the turkey, Sangiovese can be counted on for a firm acidity that makes it especially food-friendly. Its tart cherry flavors will provide a refreshing counterpoint to the heavier foods on the table. If you prefer all-American wines to go with this quintessential American holiday, remember that California produc­ers make some great versions of both of these wines.

Christmas/Chanukah

Wine makes a great present, but why stop there? Wine baskets are especially timely around the holidays, when everyone is entertaining. The options are limitless, so get creative!

For newbies. Many new couples are also wine novices, so consider a romance basket in holiday red. Start with a variety of rose wines. Add red-stemmed wine glasses, a pocket-size wine guide, a wine diary for recording notes, a nifty foil cutter and lever corkscrew, and some pretty glass wine stoppers.

For the gourmand on the go. Line a picnic basket with a wine-themed picnic blanket or oversize tea towel. Then fill with assorted fruits, cheeses, biscotti, a travel-size corkscrew, an insulated wine bag, freezer packs for chilled wine and, of course, a great bottle of wine.

For that VIP. Get personal and have something in the basket monogrammed, such as sleek marble coasters, a wine bucket or sturdy wine glasses. Even wine labels can be customized.

A wine bucket makes a great gift “basket.” Add an unusual or sought-after bottle of wine along with accessories such as a wine funnel, vacuum stoppers and wine charms for identifying your glass in a crowd. For those who relish bubbly, a Champagne bucket can be used the same way. Carefully arrange four Champagne stems (placed on bubble wrap and disguised with silvery tissue) and then add a super-seal Champagne stopper and a guidebook on choosing and serving Champagne.

For the connoisseur. Instead of a wicker basket, true cellar dwellers will enjoy a big rustic wine crate stuffed with a few rare Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon vintages for cellaring. Tuck in a nifty gadget, like a digital hygrometer to monitor the cellar’s humidity or an electronic wine thermometer that displays the temperature of wine in the bottle. Make room for a wine dossier or album -- essential for saving wine labels and making tasting and cel­lar notes.

For party-hearty types. Jump-start a celebration by assembling a cheese-and-wine-pairing basket. Include a variety of cheeses, cheese markers to identify the varieties, a cheese spreader, a mini cheese board, water crackers, wine pourers to pre­vent drips, fun wine napkins, and a small selection of wines from California, France and Spain.

For Everyone. Membership in the Tasters Guild is a perfect gift for anyone on your list. From the novice to the conoisseur and all in between Tasters Guild Orlando is the gift that keeps on giving throughout the year. For more information on membership go to the Benefits & Memebership page.

New Year's Eve

Champagne is still the undisputed king of the sparkling set, but some serious rivals are popping up these days. Why not make a resolution to give them a try?

Legend has it that Dom Perignon, a blind Benedictine monk in the Champagne region of France, invented Champagne in the late 17th century. The truth is that effervescence is a natural phenomenon that occurs as a result of fermentation.

But Dom Perignon was the first to develop a method that would produce a consistently fine sparkling wine. This method (méthode champenoise) is quite labor intensive and includes a second fermentation in the bottle, years of aging and then a “disgorging” process that involves each bottle being twisted and shaken until a mass of sediment gathers at the neck, which is then frozen and popped out. The results are positively bewitching – exotic, complex, aromatic wines with those signature bubbles.

Most Champagne is “non-vintage”, Which simply means there is no vintage date printed on the label and the wine inside the bottle is a blend of vintages. Chances are the wine is also a blend of grapes; primarily Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meinier. Pink, or Rosé, Champagnes include a splash of red wine (usually Pinot Noir) for color.

The name Champagne can be carried only by sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France. Strict rules govern the growing and harvesting of grapes in the region, helping to ensure premium quality and often premium prices.

But Champagne is not the only game in town when it comes to bubbly:

California makes the most sparkling wine in this country, and there is a wide range of prices, styles and qualities available. Generally speaking, California wineries use the traditional Champagne grapes and method. But because of California’s climate, the wines are often riper and more vivid than their French cousins.

Cava is Spain’s famous sparkling wine and just might be the best bubbly value around. It is made using the Champagne method and often uses Chardonnay in addition to a slew of local grapes like Macabeo and Parellada.

Italy’s Prosecco is named after the grape that is used to make the wine, helpfully enough. Although it is generally not made with the Champagne method, it is still a quaffable, refreshing sparkling wine. Like Cava it is usually value priced, making it an excellent everyday bubbly.

With these choices, sparkling wine need not be saved for special occasions. Dom Perignon may have said it best when he proclaimed, “I am drinking stars!” Doesn’t every day deserve a taste of the stars?

© 2007 Tasters Guild Orlando