Wine
101 and beyond:
Responses to frequently asked questions
Cork
When a waiter opens the
wine and offers you the cork, ignore it and smell the
wine instead. If it’s corked (smelling of wet cardboard or dirty
dishwater — you’ll know!), then return the bottle. Otherwise, the
wine is fine and you own it.
Swirling
Wine
Once opened, swirl the
wine in a glass a few times by the base of the stem, and let it rest and open
up. Most professionals ignore the stem and use the base of the glass to swirl.
Swirling
and Glassware
We swirl at the stem
because fingerprints are unattractive on the glass, and holding it by the cup
adds unnecessary heat to the wine. Wines — red or white
— like it cool and at room temperature at the least.
Wine’s
Aroma: Take A Good Sniff
What you think you’re tasting when you drink wine, you’re
actually smelling. So give wine several good swirls to release the
aroma (bouquet), and take a good sniff. What aromas you here get is
reflected in the flavors as it hits your palate.
Decanting
It is safer to order
younger wines that need no decanting. You never know how older wines have been
treated or stored before the restaurant got them.
Decanting
Again
Young wines need no
decanting because they have no sediment. However, some like to decant young
wines, and it’s best to do so by splashing the wine right into the
decanter. Since there’s no sediment to worry about, splashing will aerate
the wine faster, making it drinkable quicker.
You and
Your Wine
Pour your own wine.
Inform the waiter that you’ll take care of the wine. Pour just an ounce
or two. Don’t add wine to what’s already in your glass because the
wine has changed — this way you can experience the wine at its evolving
stages.
You and
the Waiter
You pour your own wine
because wait staff are trained to over-pour wine to get you to buy a second
bottle.
On
Pouring
When pouring wine, offer
about 3 ounces at a time. Refills should be the same. Generally, a total of
about 10 to 12 ounces throughout a meal can be safely consumed. When wine
bottles were created to hold 24 ounces, the thinking was that half a bottle per
person with a meal was about the right amount. Larger pours are what waitstaff are trained to do so you’ll order a second
bottle, which may lead to impairment.
Wine
and Your Meal
Remember to drink wine
with your meal. Most people eat, wash it away with water, and then drink their
wine. Wine is meant to be married with your meal.
On the
Sommelier
If the restaurant has a
sommelier, it’s unnecessary to tip the person. Sommeliers usually receive
a percentage of the wine you bought, and most sommeliers earn a professional
wage.
Screwcaps
Get used to screwcaps as you’ll be seeing more of them. It may
hurt the romance of a popping cork and ruin the server’s panache, but
you’ll have untainted wine.
Tipping
Speaking of tipping: Look
your bill over and don’t tip on any state and local taxes. Subtract the
tax, and tip on just the meal, wine, and service received. Tipping ranges from
15 to 20%.
Tipping
Again
Make sure the restaurant
has not already added 17.5%, which is what many European restaurants do. This
occurs in the
You and
the Maître D’
Unless a maître
d’ has offered you service (reserving a table, or giving you a special
table, e.g.), there is no reason to tip.
Wines
by the Glass
Unless a restaurant
features wines by the glass, don’t order wine by the glass at the bar or
at table: it’s often lacking in quality, and you overpay for what little
quality there is.
On Overpouring
Another reason to be
hesitant about ordering wines by the glass at bars is that they offer larger
pours, which means they charge you more. It also means there may be danger of
impairment, more than most people think. Drink responsibly.
Cost of
Wine at Restaurants
Most wines at many
restaurants are grossly overpriced — between 200 and 300%. The $90 wine
you bought cost the restaurant about $30. Also beware of wines on most hotel
lists, where a 300%+ markup is normal.
On
Pairing
Pairing wine and food:
the question of sauces keeps returning: Do you pair wine with the sauce or with
the actual subject of the meal? Most chefs will pair a wine with the sauce
accompanying the meal, like veal, not the other way around.
On
Pairing Again
Not sure about pairing
wine and food? Then do the safe thing: order
On Champagne
Think that
No Champagne Swirl
Speaking of
Wines
by Mail
Unless you are sure of
the quality you are getting and are happy with whom you are dealing,
don’t buy wines or send gift orders from mail order houses. Most of the
various package options offered to consumers consist of mediocre wines.
Instead, find a good wine retailer, many of whom have the capability of sending
wines for you.
Your
Wine Cellar
Cellaring wine: If you
don’t have a temperature and humidity controlled wine cellar, place fine
young red wine capable of aging at the bottom of your wine rack, nearest the
floor where it is cooler, which prevents premature aging. Wines ready to drink
should be placed at the top part of your wine rack.
Wine
Temperature
Wine serving temperature:
questions continue about this. When wine rules were made about serving room
temperature, central heating was not a factor, and rooms were often much
colder. Arguably, the best serving temperature for a red wine
is 60 degrees; somewhat less for white. As for reds, if you don’t
have a temperature controlled wine cellar, try putting the bottle in the
refrigerator for 10 to 20 minutes before uncorking. For quicker results with
reds, get an ice bucket and chill the wine for a few minutes. Purists are
appalled by this, but it works.
Wine
Cellar Tip
Wines are tougher than
you think and while keeping a consistency of temperature and humidity is
desirable, it is not always possible for many consumers. Thus, the things to
avoid are radical drops in temperature, vibration, and sun.
No
Bottle Turning
Some myths die hard:
There is absolutely no need to turn your bottles once they’re in the wine
rack. Wines need to remain still, not to be needlessly rotated.
Laying
Down Bubbly
If you are using your
Wine
Racks
Unrefrigerated wine racks
in your kitchen are useless. They make a good designer statement but not a good
wine one. There’s too much heat and humidity in a kitchen to store your
fine wines. If you don’t have a cellar, a cool, dark back hall or closet
floor will do.
Wine
Guilt
You don’t have to
feel guilty about not consuming that bottle of fine wine you had last night. Screwcaps tightly re-closed and refrigerated can keep wine
fresher days longer than any recorked bottle in the
same conditions. When removing wine from the refrigerator, let it stand in room
temperature for about 10-20 minutes so the wine can regain some of its balance
from the shock of cold storage. White wine served too cold is rendered
“dumb.” Red wine served cold is nothing short of barbarous, which
is frequently the case when you order red wine by the glass in a restaurant or
bar.
Cellar
Miscellany
Unless you’re
spending serious dollars on your wine cellar and buying great vintages, like
the Bordeaux 2005 or great older vintages from France, California and wherever,
don’t fret too much about cellaring because wines today are being made
for more immediate consumption, with little aging ahead. The $10 to $50 wine
you are buying will generally never be better or fresher than it is when you
purchased it.
Screwcaps Again
Will screwcaps
assist in aging wine? Thus far, no one knows for sure. Nonetheless, wines in screwcaps should be placed on their side just like any cork
closed wine in your rack. It’s best not to take chances. Screwcaps can be damaged via shipping and storage allowing
air to enter and spoil the wine.
Wine Vocab
New wine vocabulary: Garrafeira. With fine wines from
Pairing
Sweet with Sweet
Any sweet wine (port for
example) being paired should be sweeter than the food or dessert it is paired
with; otherwise, you have a conflict of flavors, and nothing is gained.
Preserving
Champagne
Leftover Champagne needs
to have bubbles preserved, and can be done so with a Champagne stopper, of
course, but we find it as effective to closely seal the bottle’s opening
with some plastic wrap and secure it tightly with an elastic or a twisty. This
should last for 2 to 3 days.
Oregon’s King Estate makes world-class Pinot Gris.
If there’s one white wine you must drink this summer, it’s Pinot Gris. But it must be good Pinot Gris, like the kind you’ll find in Alsace and Oregon. We’re opting for Oregon because the recent 2006 vintage is extremely good and better than its Alsace counterpart, and because the Euro is so absurdly high that it’s ridiculous to ask consumers to spend 60 percent more for a French wine.
Pinot Gris has never really been out of fashion, and it has gained more recognition and momentum from knowing consumers over the years. In Oregon, no winery makes better Pinot Gris than King Estate. Hugh Johnson corroborates our view (see his Modern Encyclopedia), saying further that “Pinot Gris is King’s finest wine.” Almost unilaterally, the wine press has been praising King about this varietal. When nicely chilled, Pinot Gris is delicious, and it’s wonderfully versatile, working well as an aperitif (oysters and crab), and as an entrée (salmon craves Pinot Gris, as does pork, which can be a difficult food to pair). In summer especially, Pinot Gris is like great Chablis: it can make you forget about the efficacies of Champagne.
Pinot Gris derives from the Pinot Noir family and is known by many names. In Alsace, it’s often referred to as Tokay; in Italy it’s called Pinot Grigio. Here we call it Pinot Gris. No matter the name, when nature provides for a fine vintage, Pinot Gris is soft, gently perfumed, dry, with substance and texture. It gets all this from its Pinot Noir relative. Like Pinot Noir, Gris’ grapes are blue, brown, and pink, which yield a wine with engaging straw and golden colors and effusive aromatic notes. It’s powerful yet soft; assertive yet yielding; aristocratic without an attitude.
At King Estate, Pinot Gris is a religion, of sorts, and John Albin, Director of Viticulture and Winemaking, and Meliton Martinez, Vineyard Manager, make it so. They make small lots (which are stirred weekly) in stainless steel tanks, and produce slightly more than 10,000 cases of six-packs from their organic vineyards. The world is getting “green” these days, but King Estate was well ahead of all that years ago, and their vineyards have been declared 100 percent Certified Organic for some time. Oregon is a curious wine region. They have fine wines — Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, for examples — but many of the wineries still behave like cottage industries. They’re short on money and shorter on marketing. King Estate in Eugene, however, is the envy of the region, with its state-of-the-art facilities, its chef and restaurant, and its cookbooks. It is not only an artistically handsome place, but it’s a winery that has capital, marketing and PR. King Estate wines are available all across the country, something we can’t say about many Oregonian wines. Another thing you can’t say about many Oregonian wines is that the wines are inexpensive; yet King Estate offers world-class wine at great prices.
* 2007 Domaine King Estate Pinot Gris, $25. This is the best King Estate Pinot Gris, and worthy of a fine meal that includes a choice piece of salmon. The wine offers a soft and inviting yellow straw color. There are rich wafting aromas of what fine Pinot Gris always gives: melon, pear, citrus, pineapple, and nutmeg spice. The difference here, however, is the rounded and complex concentration these aromas display. The same flavors are in the finish, which offer seductive texture. It’s long, deep, and satisfying. One of the best examples of its kind.
* 2007 Signature King Estate Pinot Gris, $16. It hasn’t the depth of its richer Domaine brethren, but it has all the other qualities in a lighter and spirited way. Deeper straw color than the Domaine, with honey, pineapple, citrus, and floral notes. Lively and charming on the palate, with good texture and finish. 110,000 cases. Sumptuous wine that’s worth the price.
Freemark Abbey
Inevitably one of the first questions I get when I recommend a wine from Freemark Abbey is, “Why is it called Freemark Abbey”. No, it is not named after a Monk named Mark who is being held captive in the Abbey and no, it is not because anyone named Mark that goes there is held captive in the Abbey (more about that later). It is simply a combination of the names of the owners in 1939.
Freemark Abbey got its start in 1886 when Josephine Marlin Tychson became the first woman to build and operate a winery in California. In 1881 she and her husband purchased 147-acres north of St. Helena (later known as “Tychson Hill”) for a whopping $8,500! They moved there in hopes that the Napa Valley climate would help her husband who had tuberculosis. He had a dream to have a winery, but unfortunately he never lived to see his plans take shape. The winery sold a couple of times before Antonio Forni purchased it in 1898. This Italian immigrant named the winery Lombarda Cellars, named after his birthplace in Italy. Lombarda Cellars specialized in Italian style wines to be shipped to Barre, Vermont where there was a large concentration of Italians who worked the quarries.
In 1919 Lombarda Cellars had to close its doors because of the implementation of prohibition. Forni like many other vintners in Napa Valley just couldn’t make it and were forced to cease production.
Years later, in 1939, three businessmen from Southern California, Albert “Abbey” Ahern, Charles Freeman and Markquand Foster purchased Lombarda Cellars and combined their names to create Freemark Abbey!
A couple of years ago my partner at Funky Monkey Wine Company, Nicholas Olivieri, and I went to visit Freemark Abbey. We were struck by the fact that the two bartenders assisting us with our tasting and our selection of wines to go were both names Mark. The first thing out of my mouth was, “Let me guess, you came in to taste and they have been holding you captive in the Abbey ever since?!?” Apparently they didn’t think it was as amusing as I did. None-the-less, they make a fantastic product which I enjoyed then and still do to this day.
Ok, enough about all of that, Spring is in the air and their wines are a great way to bring it in! Funky Monkey Wine Company has the 2004 Freemark Abbey Chardonnay which is perfect for our namesake. Pale yellow hue with aromas of ripe bananas, pineapple upside-down cake, lemon-lime and floral scream Spring! Follow that with flavors of apples, bananas, creamy butterscotch enlivened by a subtle touch of oak give this Chardonnay a crisp finish. As a Chardonnay lover (watch it all you Chardonnay haters), this one is a favorite.
Another favorite for Spring is the 2000 Edelwein Late Harvest Riesling. This wine is great for after dinner, or for a warm Spring day just to sip on. Late Harvest, just like it sounds, is extended fruit maturity and slow botrytis (go to www.tastersguildorlando.com for a glossary of wine terms) development make this delight what it is. The wine is pure gold (everyone loves gold in the Spring, or any time for that matter) color with intense aromas of fruit blossoms, orange marmalade and honey. The flavors are peach, marmalade, and apricots. This wine has a great sweet-tart kick to it.
It wouldn’t be Spring without the grill! Break that baby out and grill up some lamb, the Monkey is bringing a 2003 Freemark Abbey Merlot to the table! This wine has a rich ruby color with reddish hues. The aroma is appealing with nuances of dried cranberry, red raspberry, cherry, chocolate espresso and hints of mint and arugula (excuse me a moment while I go get a glass… my mouth is watering!). The flavor is crisp with plum, cherry, dark fruit, chocolate and a hint of oak. That makes this perfect for grilled lamb or game.
I have one more I just have to tell you about! If lamb or game are not your style but you still want to grill for your special someone do I have the treat for you. This is a limited supply wine, but it is sure to impress; 2004 Josephine, named after the original owner of the winery in 1886. This wine is very dark ruby in color with aromas of cedar, clove, boysenberry, milk chocolate, black cherry and black currants (there is a lot going on in there!). The flavor is rich black raspberry, black cherry, dark chocolate and a hint of vanilla the Monkey recommends a steak on the grill. Make sure to sauté up mushrooms and onions for that extra kick of enjoyment.
Well, that is all I have time for right now. Make sure to enjoy the Spring, it is bound to be great enjoyed with a special someone and Freemark Abbey!
Cheers!
Eddie Nickell
Funky Monkey Wine Company
Mettler Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
The 2002 Mettler Cabernet Sauvignon has an attractive garnet hue. Earthy scents of plum, blueberry, leather, green olive and a vanilla note tantalize the nose. The mouth-feel is medium bodied and fruit forward. Its fruit forwardness is balanced by structured tannins. You will find a plethora of flavors explode in your mouth including, blackberry, cocoa, white pepper, ripe black cherry, plum, tea and sweet tobacco. This is a balanced, juicy Cabernet that's drinking nicely right now or to cellar. This Cabernet has an approachable yet traditional style. It pairs beautifully with barbequed lamb chops with fresh rosemary, filet medallions and caramelized onions, and is sinfully delicious with dark chocolate. The 2002 Mettler Cabernet Sauvignon is highly allocated and becoming difficult to come by. When you do find it, expect to pay $25.00 retail or $55.00 in a restaurant and it is well worth it! I have cellared a couple bottles and consumed my fair share! It is worth the try and will be a shame when it is gone. Enjoy while you can.
Cheers!
Eddie Nickell - Sommelier, Director of Tasters Guild Orlando
THE ROOTS
With their roots in the wine industry dating back to the 1770s, it’s no surprise that the Mettler Family is still growing grapes today. After migrating to the U.S. in the late 1800’s, the Mettler family migrated to California, where they knew that farming would bring success. The east side of the now famous Lodi region is where the first Mettler vineyards were planted by George Mettler which began the family's Lodi legacy. Carl Mettler, 4th generation farmer and George’s grandson, continued the family tradition and dedicated his life to farming his grandfather's land. Carl and his wife raised their family amongst their Lodi vineyards. Carl worked closely with nearby Universities and delegated several vineyard sites to experimental varieties.
This experimentation helped to establish growing conditions for specific varieties in the Lodi region. Carl's dedication in the vineyard awarded him a spot in the Agricultural Hall of Fame. His integrity and love of the land is still being carried out by one of his three sons, Larry Phillip, who still farms the original Mettler Vineyards, along with his wife Char and their three children, Kimberly, Kelli and Adam.
BEHIND THE SCENES
Larry began farming in the early 1970's, after graduating with a viticulture and enology degree from the California State University of Fresno. He has continued to keep the family's passion for excellence in the vineyard alive, and he and his wife Char have instilled that within their three children, Kimberly, Kelli, and Adam. Over the years, the Mettler family’s premium vineyards have produced grapes for many well-known winery clients. In 1999 The Mettler family retained the help from friend and consulting enologist Barry Gnekow and produced wine for their own label with Cabernet grapes from one of their best vineyards. The inaugural wine was released in the summer of 2001. In 2003 the Mettlers expanded their portfolio with the release of their first Petite Sirah. Each member personally contributes to the family operation, both with longtime experience and formal education.
Kimberly, a graduate of the University of the Pacific with a masters in Psychology; Kelli who holds a degree in Agribusiness and International Wine Marketing, and Adam, a graduate of the University of Fresno with a degree in Enology and a minor in Chemistry, all have joined their parents in the family business and the launch of their wine brand. Kimberly’s husband, Jason Eells, is also involved with the family wine operations and is responsible for vineyard management. Family pride and old world values have remained with the Mettler family through their eight generations of grape growing - five generations in the Lodi area alone. The Mettler Family works closely together to ensure that every detail promotes quality from the vineyard to the bottle, and they are committed to producing wines of the highest quality.
OUR VINEYARDS
Our family has been growing grapes for eight generations, dating back to a small German, now French village Alsace. We have been growing premium wine grapes in the Lodi appellation for five generations. We were one of the very first farming families to introduce French clones to our region, and have experience growing many varieties of grapes. We farm hundreds of acres some of which date back to our families original properties, which are over 100 years old.
Our Cabernet is selected from very small blocks of vineyards, which are trained on special trellis systems, one which was originally designed by Jason, our vineyard manager and Larry. Our trellis systems allow just the right amount of sunlight to grace the fruit on the vine. Our crop level is controlled using minimum use of water and hand thinning. Our wine is an expression of where and how the grapes are grown, including the clonal choice, vineyard sites, trellis, crop management and expertise of the winemaker. We personally manage the entire process, paying close attention to every detail.
Our family is committed to being on the cutting edge concerning the farming of our vineyards. It is our dedication to this and the personal control we have over our vineyards that allow us to master the quality of our wine from the vineyard to the bottle.
Also incorporated into our farming program are many organic aspects. Cover crops are grown in our vineyards, providing a means of protecting and improving our soil structure. This enables the organic matter within our soils to keep turning over, which helps build and maintain the structure and fertility of our soils, which promotes a more natural approach to farming. Owl boxes have also been built to create homes for owls to reside and raise their young, promoting natural rodent control in the vineyards. This helps protect young vines and shoots from becoming nibbled on and destroyed.
We also farm our vineyards using the latest biologically integrated farming system. This program was designed to monitor our appellations vineyards, reducing chemical usage and placing pest traps in vineyards to guard against such destructive pests as the glassy winged sharp shooter. Reduction of water and fertilizers in our vineyards along with integrated pest management (IPM) keep our vineyards healthy, and our wine quality consistent.
The personal control we have over our vineyards allow us to master the quality of our wine from the vineyard to the bottle. At Mettler Family Vineyards, our vines are part of the family.
2004 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay
My new wine pick is a 2004 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay. This Chardonnay comes from the Chalone Appellation of California's Monterey County.
The 2004 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay, rated 87-points by Wine Spectator, is medium-light golden yellow, earthy, herbal, green apple aroma with mineral like notes. The flavor is medium intensity with a light, smokey, cedary oak, ripe pear, melon and apple flavors with a hint of mango. It has low tannin, medium body and is very dry. I like this Chardonnay with lightly smoked or grilled dishes that will enhance the flavors imparted by the oak barrels. One of my favorites is a grilled, herb marinated Sea Bass on a bed of white beans and sautéed spinach. The firm acidity in the wine highlights the herbal components of the dish and echoes the earthly character in the wine, while heightening the sweetness of the fish. For those of you who know me also know that I truly enjoy this Chardonnay all by itself too... It retails for between $14-20 or $45-60 in a restaurant or $12-15 per glass.
The 2004 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay is made entirely from fruit grown on their estate vineyard. The 2004 Chardonnay is an extremely fine and delicate with aromas of stone, fruit and brioche. Ten months of sur lie aging (Sur lie literally translates from the French as 'on lees', lees being the yeasty residue remaining in the cask after fermentation. 'Sur lie' wines are bottled directly from the lees without racking, a process for filtering the wine, giving an added freshness and creaminess to the wine.) in 100% French oak barrels gives texture and imparts complex aromas of vanilla and hazelnut. As is typical of Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay, the acidity is firm and bright and the wine posses a lot of mineral flavor from the unique limestone site. The Winemaker says this is an age-worthy Chardonnay (3-7 years), “I like to call Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay the white wine for red wine drinkers.”
Perched high in the remote Gavilan Mountain Range, 1,800 feet above Salinas Valley, Chalone Vineyard is a one-of-a-kind wine estate. This is extreme wine country with rare limestone soils, limited rainfall and wide diurnal temperature swings. The unique terroir produces wines that impart a subtle mineral character with compelling fruit and richness. By California standards, Chalone Vineyard's grape yields are small (less than three tons per acre), but the grapes from this vineyard achieve homogeneity of ripeness and display intense, hedonistic character and superb balance
The 2004 vintage started out with warm weather in January and March, leading to early bud break; however, this did not result in an early harvest. Spring and summer were relatively mild, providing the gradual development of deep and even flavors. Harvest began in September, with warm temperatures giving great ripeness and fruit character. The 2004 vintage produced 24,777 cases with 14.2% alcohol content.
Chalone Vineyards History
The oldest producing vineyard in Monterey County, Chalone Vineyard rests on the Gavilan Mountain Range on the north slope of Chalone Peak. At 1,800 feet, the quiet splendor of the vineyards overlooks spectacular views of the wide-open Salinas Valley, made famous by local author John Steinbeck. The vineyard's name comes from the peak, which derives its name from that of the indigenous Costanoan Indian tribe, the Chalone, or Chollen Indians.
1919: The first planting
The first viticultural activity began shortly after the turn of the 20th century when Charles Tamm, wandering California in search of soil similar to that of his native Burgundy, stumbled upon the property that is now Chalone. In 1919 Tamm planted what is today the oldest producing Chenin Blanc in Monterey County. During Prohibition, the grapes were sold to wineries making sacramental wines.
1946: Expansion
In 1946 the vineyard now called "The Lower Vineyard," was planted by Will Silvear with more Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, and he added Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Silvear made some wine in Watsonville (we have an empty bottle of "Silvear's Light Wine," that was found in a rubble pile). He also sold grapes to the Wente family and Georges de Latour at Beaulieu in Napa. Mr. Silvear died in 1955 and his wife continued to operate the vineyard for a while, finally selling it to Dr. Liska and Mr. Sigman. They operated the vineyard for several years.
1960: Chalone label introduced
The first wine produced under the Chalone label was made in 1960 by Philip Togni, in what had been a brooding shed for chickens. Daily trips to Salinas for ice, which at that time was an hour and a half away, provided the cooling needed for the wine cellar.
1964: Dick Graff
In 1964, Dick Graff, a Harvard music graduate and former naval officer, tasted a Windsor Vineyard wine made from Chalone grapes. He was immediately entranced and after visiting the remote winery, was determined to own Chalone. In 1965 Dick embarked on what has now become a part of California winemaking and viticultural history, attending University of California, Davis to learn winemaking and then he and his mother, Estelle, saved the Chalone property from imminent bankruptcy. Almost single-handedly, Dick was responsible for introducing California winemakers to the intricacies of malolactic fermentation in white wines as well as the now widespread practice of fermenting and aging white wine in small oak barrels. He was also one of the first persons to import and sell barrels from Burgundy in the United States.
1970s: Chalone Grows
By 1970 Chalone was planting more vineyards. In 1971 Dick was joined by Phil Woodward, a fellow wine enthusiast, who was working for the accounting firm of Touche Ross and Company. As president, Phil took over the financial and marketing aspects of running the winery and, together they began what became the Chalone Wine Group. In 1973, winemaking moved from the chicken shed to a new building just above the former winery. In the meantime, two of Dick's brothers, John and Peter, each served a stint as winemaker.
1980s: The 20th century finally arrives.
In 1984, caves were created to store Pinot Noir but conditions were still rustic. The sole means of communications was a radiotelephone in one of the pickup trucks, power came from one of several generators and water was carried up 3,000 gallons at a time by truck. In 1986, the company strung its own utility lines and constructed its own eight-mile long pipeline to bring water to the winery.
1998: A new beginning
Dan Karlsen joined Chalone as winemaker and began an extensive updating program in the vineyard. Under Dan's direction, much of the vineyard was replanted using the latest research on rootstocks and clones for the site and the entire vineyard was retrellised. For the first time at Chalone, Syrah was planted.
Today the Chalone estate is comprised of almost 1,000 contiguous acres, of which nearly 310 are planted to vines. It is the only winery in the Chalone appellation. Although the estate has grown, as has our winemaking and viticultural expertise, our unique terroir remains unchanged.
Cheers!
Eddie Nickell
Tasters Guild Orlando
Hendry Blocks 9 & 21
My wine pick for this month happens to be one of my favorite Chardonnay’s… and it will soon be gone! Hendry Blocks 9 & 21. This is a very limited production Chardonnay from Napa Valley Producing only 950 cases for the 2002 vintage. I only know of two restaurants in the Orlando area that offer this great wine: Primo in the J.W. Marriott and Dux in the Peabody Orlando (I happen to be the Manager and Sommelier of Dux Restaurant).
Hendry Blocks 9 & 21 has concentrated ripe tropical fruit flavors of passion fruit and guava. There is substantial weight in the mouth with bright, acidity and a long, intense, ripe fruit and mineral finish. The French oak adds toast and nutmeg flavors which are integrated in the wine, adding an additional layer of complexity. The fruit, acid and spice are very well balanced and delicious. This is definitely a wine I recommend getting for your collection and enjoying for a special treat.
Hendry Blocks 9 & 21 is around $35 retail (if you can find it) or $65 - $70 in a restaurant. It is my opinion this is one of the best Chardonnay’s on the market and everyone should experience it. I believe this so strongly that I added this wine by the glass ($14 per glass) as well as by the bottle at Dux restaurant.
Here is some information on Hendry Vineyards and Blocks 9 & 21:
Hendry Blocks 9 & 21, located on the Hendry 115-acre vineyard, is on the bench lands between Napa Valley's Carneros and Mount Veeder viticulture (Latin for vine: viticulture is the science, production and study of grapes) districts. Hendry’s goal is to produce wines that reflect the different soils, microclimates, clones and rootstocks that define their individual vineyard blocks.
The vines grow on thin stony Boomer series soils between 190 and 225 feet above sea level. Morning fog and afternoon breezes from the San Pablo Bay moderate the climate. Block 9 was planted in 1974; Block 21 was planted in 1996. The vines are spaced 8' x 10' in the older Block 9 and 5' x 7' in Block 21. They are cordon trained (single stemmed vines with fruiting spurs planted at an angle. Any side branches are removed by pruning. Cordons take less space and crop earlier than most other forms which means that more varieties can be got into a small space, but yields are smaller per vine.) and spur pruned. Block 9 has an old, small cluster, "shot berry" field selection of Chardonnay, while Block 21 is the Old Wente selection. Both Blocks are grafted to St. George roots. A six-foot vertical trellis system supports the canopy. Average production is 2 tons per acre and harvest is normally between August 25 and September 4.
In 2002, median bud break occurred from March 10 through March 13. Median bloom was May 15 through May 22 and median veraison (the change from berry growth to berry ripening) was reached between May 15 and May 21. Harvest was September 4 through 8 with the yield of 2.2 tons per acre. Fermentation was sur lie (bottled directly from the lees without racking, a process for filtering the wine, giving an added freshness and creaminess to the wine) in French oak barrels; 50% were new. The wine was not allowed to go through malolactic fermentation (process of fermentation where tart malic acid is converted to softer-tasting lactic acid).
The alcohol content of Hendry Blocks 9 & 21, 2002 Chardonnay is 14.4%. With only 950-cases produced, this great wine will not be around much longer.
Cheers!
Eddie Nickell
Tasters Guild Orlando
